Man that is a nice clean rig. Looks fantastic. I was wondering about how much you figure this package weighs? I'm looking into getting either a 14 or 16 footer to pull with a Toyota Corolla 4 cylinder. It's rated to tow up to 1500 but I don't want to max it out. Can you easily move it around in the trailer by hand? Is the tongue weight pretty manageable?
TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Alumacraft 1648 Project - Getting Ready, Again
- Thread starter gillhunter
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
crabtree said:
Thanks crabtree. My best estimate would be around 800-900lbs. including the trailer. I move it around (on concrete) by hand with no problems. Tongue weight has to be under 100lb. or my back would let me know :LOL2: .
have you gotten a chance to use your release a seat brackets yet? (Out on the water fishing). I got mine today and honestly I'm concerned about how well the seat swivel bracket will fit. Is it a snug fit or loose? I like the idea behind it, just wish it were aluminum instead of composite.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Kevin,KevinWI said:
We have used ours for an entire season. They have a very snug fit, you have to push the swivel brackets into them. There is no movement between bench, the mount and the swivel. I think you will be happy with them.
Thanks. One last quesion (maybe 
). When you decked your mid bench....the hinges to the lid on your livewell (now dry storage) are on the metal. When you decked the lid with 1/2" ply and carpet, how did you solve any binding issue between the lid plywood and the bench plywood? did you leave a 1/2" gap or so on the hinged side so it would open? I'm trying to think of all my contingencies before I start my modification. 8)
). When you decked your mid bench....the hinges to the lid on your livewell (now dry storage) are on the metal. When you decked the lid with 1/2" ply and carpet, how did you solve any binding issue between the lid plywood and the bench plywood? did you leave a 1/2" gap or so on the hinged side so it would open? I'm trying to think of all my contingencies before I start my modification. 8)
Jay415
Well-known member
Yea Mike I was wondering that too!KevinWI said:Thanks. One last quesion (maybe
Jay415 said:Yea Mike I was wondering that too!KevinWI said:Thanks. One last quesion (maybe
Using a 3-D Solid Modeling program, not :LOL2: :LOL2: :LOL2:.
I cut the center seat opening 1/8" larger than the metal lid on all 4 sides in the 1/2" plywood, carpeted it and installed it. I ended up cutting the plywood for the lid 1/8" smaller than the metal lid on the handle end and sides and 3/4" smaller on the hinge end. I drilled out the rivets on the handle on the metal lid and removed it. Then I determined the hinge cut, (here's where it gets real scientific :LOL2: ). I stapled pieces of scrap carpet on all 4 sides of my plywood seat, clamped the wood to the metal with a bar clamp at the handle end and checked it for fit. I did need to adjust the size of my plywood. I also marked the cutout for the handle and cut the opening. I then resealed the edges on the plywood I trimmed, installed the carpet, and screwed it to the metal lid. I then installed the handle in the lid.
Since I use my space for battery storage my lid only opens to 90 degrees. For a live well you probably would want the lid to open wider than that. In that case you would want to add more clearance to the hinge end of your seat opening in the wood.
Attachments
Thanks. That helps a lot. I wasn't wrong thinking it was going to be tricky to get it right. Amazing I don't see a single screw (or bolt) showing on the carpet.
thinking I could probably bevel the hinge side cut on the bench plywood like 45 degrees to allow the lid to open further.
thinking I could probably bevel the hinge side cut on the bench plywood like 45 degrees to allow the lid to open further.
KevinWI said:
Kevin, That's the right idea. The bevel cut on the bench plywood should keep the metal part of the lid from binding and a bevel cut on the hinge edge of the plywood lid will keep it and the bench from binding.
These are the screws I used to fasten all the decking and benches. They pretty much disappear into the carpeting.
Attachments
Jay415
Well-known member
KevinWI said:
First off my project was inspired by this one so I owe a big Thanks to Mike for his help! =D>
I did the screws the same way and they disappear so well that I was afraid I wouldn't know where they were when and if I needed to remove the deck. So before I screwed them in all the way I took a bunch of pictures with the screws sticking out. This way I at least have an idea of where and how many I used. I'll tell you though once they are screwed in, I can't find them! They really do disappear!
is that the expensive marine carpet or the outdoor stuff at Lowes?
KevinWI said:
I used 16oz. marine carpet from Bass Pro. Marine carpet backing is supposed to be able to handle gasoline spills without coming apart. I haven't spilled any gas on it yet, but I've dumped a few half full cups of coffee and "fish stuff" :LOL2: and a rinse with water when I get home has taken care of it. If you look at the total cost of your project the decking and carpet are probably the most inexpensive items.
Not for me....my custom livewell is going to put me in the po-housegillhunter said:
but, I want, what I want and have to pay for it too! lol and electrical is going to be around 2 bills to when it's all said and done.
gillhunter said:
Gotta like this forum. Pulled up the pic of the bag of screws on my cell phone, showed it to the guy at Lowes and said "I need these!"
Got exactly what I wanted down to the bar code on the package!....(they aren't cheap!)
:
novaman
Well-known member
Just got around to looking at Your followup and I think anyone would be pleased to own that boat. Very nicely thought out and executed mod. Congratulations from a Hoosier to a former Hoosier.
Wayfaraway
Active member
Beautiful build, so clean and crisp. Excellent craftsmanship!
I SEE A 1648 IN MY FUTURE!
I SEE A 1648 IN MY FUTURE!
Similar threads
