Alumacraft Model F Mod

[tonynoriega]

sworrior.

[side note] "...Haze Grey on the ship..." Guessing a Navy vet?

I scuffed up the GluvIt with a little 80 grit sand paper to give it a good tooth to hold, and used a wire brush on some of the grooved crease type seams.

I used rattle can primer (self etching), and Rusto Smoke Grey and it is holding just fine.

 

[Timtactical]

I was going to say, squid. Its ok, you can call me a Jar head, I like the navy. Your rattle primer will do fine.

 

[sworrior]

Thanks for the tips. Glad to put the rattle cans to good use...Still active Navy and can't retire for a few more years. Best to have the boat finished early.

tonynoriega, nice boat. I love the color.

 

[tonynoriega]

Rusto smoke grey, and rusto "Cardinal" red.

Still active eh. Good on ya.

Gonna take a wild shot here...

Senior Chief. Electricians Mate? EMCS.

sworrior » 39 minutes ago[/url]"]Thanks for the tips. Glad to put the rattle cans to good use...Still active Navy and can't retire for a few more years. Best to have the boat finished early.

tonynoriega, nice boat. I love the color.

 

[sworrior]

Used to be an ET3, now a LCDR SWO on shore duty who is not used to being home this much and needs to fill my free time with excess projects.

 

[Timtactical]

sworrior » 28 Jul 2014, 16:24[/url]"]Used to be an ET3, now a LCDR SWO on shore duty who is not used to being home this much and needs to fill my free time with excess projects.

Good on you sir, that's tough ****.

 

[tonynoriega]

Nice.

[commence thread hijack]

Did you submit for OCS? Or were you selected? I don't recall the process on how one when from enlisted to officer.

I got out back in 2000... hard to imagine, but I am pretty sure if I would have stayed in I wold be at least a chief by now. Would be coming up on 18 years...

Holy sh!t... I didn't realize that until I just counted that out.

I was a PN2(SW) when I abandon ship!.... (that was a terrible usage of a pun).

USS Stethem DDG 63 - Two awesome West-Pac tours - Shellback

 

[sworrior]

Enlisted in 1996. Went to ET A School and got picked up for an NROTC scholarship to Marquette. Had to pay back the 4 years of school and decided to stick it out.

 

[sworrior]

Back to the boat.
Gluvit arrived today, but with highs in the 60's, I'll have to wait a few days before I brush it on.
Used a soft brass wire wheel and 100 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander to rough up the exterior.
Finished most of the transom other than final fitting and finishing.
Everything is on hold until the temperature warms up.

 

[Timtactical]

That looks great, it looks like your ready for a polish.

 

[sworrior]

It's a shame to have to paint it.

I was re-thinking my rattle can primer after reading the Gluvit website. Instructions from their website (https://www.marinetex.com/Marine-Tex_how_to.html):

Product: Gluvit Epoxy Sealer

-Materials: Aluminum prep wash, solvent for cleaning (acetone or lacquer thinner work well), 100 grit sandpaper, a good quality paint brush, 1/4" nap paint roller (if needed), a large mixing cup (if only using a portion of the kit) and a mixing stick

-Conditions: Minimum 65˚F temperature, 48 hours to fully cure at 65˚F

-Read instructions on product packaging. Clean surface with solvent then sand. An aluminum prep wash can be used to profile the aluminum surface. Mix material per directions (5:1 ratio by volume). The working time is one hour at 70˚F. Apply the material with a brush or roller directly to the surface, a primer is not needed. The long open time allows the product to seep deep into pin holes and hairline cracks around seams and rivets. A second coat can be used by mixing additional material 12 hours after the first application, if desired. This product does not have any ultraviolet inhibitors. A coat of epoxy friendly paint that is suitable for your application must be applied if treated area is in direct contact with sunlight. Contact your paint supplier to insure your are using the proper paint for your application.

**********************************************************************

RustOleum's website doesn't say anything about being epoxy friendly and other forums I've read say that oil-based enamals won't cure properly over most epoxy. Anyone have any thoughts/experience?

 

[onthewater102]

Epoxy is its own class of surface for paint to adhere to - so you need a primer which works specifically on Epoxy, finding something compatible with "plastic" won't suffice, neither will those which work with fiberglass, as fiberglass is typically made from a polyester resin not epoxy...

I'm sure you'll get tons of anecdotal comments that "I used XYZ product and it worked fine" - ignore them & find the right primer for the job the first time.

 

[Timtactical]

onthewater102 » 29 Jul 2014, 09:59[/url]"]I'm sure you'll get tons of anecdotal comments that "I used XYZ product and it worked fine" - ignore them & find the right primer for the job the first time.

But mine worked fine :wink:

 

[onthewater102]

Timtactical » 29 Jul 2014, 10:05[/url]"]But mine worked fine :wink:

Do you know why?

 

[Timtactical]

Nope, but guessing that the gluvit was semi tacky when I applied the paint/primer, the top surface of the paint is bonded to the gluvit

 

[tonynoriega]

Im just giving you my most recent experience.

I used GluvIt on my boat. Obviously just on the bare aluminum spots which was almost all of my boat!!

Down the seams, in the cracks, inside outside, in my transom aqueduct, on a weld spot I had done. Everywhere I thought the possibility of leakage could occur.

I let that cure for weeks. Not necessary, but I didnt have a choice really.

It got hard as a rock, and slick as all get out.

I sanded and scuffed it up real nice.

Wiped everything down with acetone, and gave my entire boat a vinegar water wash. Dont know if it was necessary or not. But it gave me confidence.

I then use Moeller Self Etching Primer with Zinc Chromate by the recommendation of about 1000 people on here.

Hit the entire boat. Inside and outside. Right over the GluvIt.

Used a HPLV gun to spray Rustoleum Oil Based Enamel. Several coats. With proper cure time between.

I think 2 coats outside, and a light two coats inside.

With anything, any scrapes and dings take the paint to alum, but hell... just gives it character to me, and can easily be touched up IMO.

Just my recent experience with an almost same boat.

Before and After transom wood.

 

[sworrior]

Looking at the MSDS for TimTactical's Paint (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Satin-Moss-Green-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-249071/202058662), it looks like it's an acryllic-based paint/primer in one. While acryllic isn't as durable as enamel, for the price you can't beat it.

Duralux and Parker Duck Boat Paint were appealing, but after emailing both manufacturers, I don't think they're epoxy compatible but neither rep would say for certain.

Gluvit's customer service rep said any epoxy or paint labeled as a "bottom" paint should work. Going to see if I can scrounge something up. West Marine by me has anti-fouling paint, but that is a no-no for aluminum boats.

Moeller Self Etching Primer with Zinc Chromate looks like a winner to me. Made a call and Lowes by my house has a few colors in stock. It also, according to the TDS, appears to be epoxy compatible. Thanks!

Of course, I could always paint the boat with this (https://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3115098)

I keep forgetting it's a "Free" aluminum boat and not the QE II. Need to quit the fussin' and get to fishin'.

 

[sworrior]

tonynoriega, nice transom. Is that Sapele?
I made a center console for my ice fishing shack out of Sapele and maple ply. It's taken a beating and will probably outlast me. Wish I some extra, but I had the curly white oak sitting around begging for a project.

This is where my OCD takes over and I lose sleep over primer coats.

 

[onthewater102]

Rust-oleum makes a product "2k Epoxy Primer" if you're looking for the rattle can approach.

Otherwise you could get it at an automotive paint shop for a spray gun.

 

[tonynoriega]

Sapele it is sir.

I loved the way it too the spar and made it look like candy.

Finished smooth too which was nice.

That was actually my 2nd piece... first piece was slight off centered, and as you state, my OCD would just not let it go.