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Alumacraft Model F Mod
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Gluvit was extremely easy to apply. Here's what I did:
-Wire brushed seams with a soft wire wheel and cordless drill followed by light sanding with a random orbital sander and 100 grit sand paper
-Used compressed air to blow the dust off
-Wiped the entire surface with laquer thinner and lint free rags
-The Gluvit directions called for a 5:1 ratio mixture with 2-3 minutes of stirring
-I used a soft natural bristle brush, applying to the seams and joints first, then the rivets--making sure to work the Gluvit into the crevices with the brush
-I put two space heaters in my garage (evening temps in the 50's) to aid in curing
A few notes:
-Gluvit container was only half full (or half empty), the website says that this is to allow mixing in the can. I saw some complaints about this on the forum, but wanted to dispel the myth that Gluvit is ripping you off.
-Gluvit is thinner than I thought. It reminds me of warmed maple syrup, not the goopy epoxy I'm used to. this enables the product to work into the seams and crevices
-I mixed half of the product at a time since I wasn't sure how long of an open time I'd have. Even after an hour, the orignal batch was still easily workable until I ran out and had to mix the second batch (my garage temp was 72F)
-I wore nitrile gloves, but the product wasn't as messy as I thought
How it performs on the water remains to be seen, but so far, I'm glad I went with the Gluvit.
-Wire brushed seams with a soft wire wheel and cordless drill followed by light sanding with a random orbital sander and 100 grit sand paper
-Used compressed air to blow the dust off
-Wiped the entire surface with laquer thinner and lint free rags
-The Gluvit directions called for a 5:1 ratio mixture with 2-3 minutes of stirring
-I used a soft natural bristle brush, applying to the seams and joints first, then the rivets--making sure to work the Gluvit into the crevices with the brush
-I put two space heaters in my garage (evening temps in the 50's) to aid in curing
A few notes:
-Gluvit container was only half full (or half empty), the website says that this is to allow mixing in the can. I saw some complaints about this on the forum, but wanted to dispel the myth that Gluvit is ripping you off.
-Gluvit is thinner than I thought. It reminds me of warmed maple syrup, not the goopy epoxy I'm used to. this enables the product to work into the seams and crevices
-I mixed half of the product at a time since I wasn't sure how long of an open time I'd have. Even after an hour, the orignal batch was still easily workable until I ran out and had to mix the second batch (my garage temp was 72F)
-I wore nitrile gloves, but the product wasn't as messy as I thought
How it performs on the water remains to be seen, but so far, I'm glad I went with the Gluvit.
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tonynoriega
Well-known member
Sounds exactly like what I went through.
My can was pretty much 1/4 empty... I was also told this was if you wanted to add a mixing attachment to a cordless drill and mix in the can.
Meh...whatever.
Did you do the outside seams with the GluvIt, or did you do the inside?
My can was pretty much 1/4 empty... I was also told this was if you wanted to add a mixing attachment to a cordless drill and mix in the can.
Meh...whatever.
Did you do the outside seams with the GluvIt, or did you do the inside?
I applied to the outside seams only. I had a few ounces left over, but it wouldn't have been enough to do much of the inside.
I used the Rust-O-Leum Flex Seal in rattle cans on the inside and I'm happy with it.
I used the Rust-O-Leum Flex Seal in rattle cans on the inside and I'm happy with it.
tonynoriega
Well-known member
Schweet.
I am sure you heard it before, but apparently after sun exposure that stuff turns a dingy yellow... so best to paint over it.
I wasn't sure I caught it in the previous posts... but what year is your boat?
I am sure you heard it before, but apparently after sun exposure that stuff turns a dingy yellow... so best to paint over it.
I wasn't sure I caught it in the previous posts... but what year is your boat?
Garage temp was 94F for 24 hours and the gluvit was fully cured.
Sanded the entire boat with 80 grit to give the primer more bite.
Rubbed the boat down with laquer thinner
Put on 2 coats of Rustoleum self etching primer (it was all I could find last night)
Letting the primer cure with the heaters for 24 hours...really pleased with the results.
Decided to repaint the transom flat black to blend in with the new theme.
Sanded the entire boat with 80 grit to give the primer more bite.
Rubbed the boat down with laquer thinner
Put on 2 coats of Rustoleum self etching primer (it was all I could find last night)
Letting the primer cure with the heaters for 24 hours...really pleased with the results.
Decided to repaint the transom flat black to blend in with the new theme.
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Timtactical
Well-known member
That blends in really well, but you can still see there is plenty of gluvit material around the head of the rivet.
tonynoriega
Well-known member
GluvIt Looks good.
After the primer and paint, should be nice and sealed up tight.
After the primer and paint, should be nice and sealed up tight.
I'm worried about the durability of the Rustoleum Camo paint. Says it's great for boats, but I doubt it. I'll be re-coating again this Fall I'm sure with something more durable. Who knows, I could be mistaken. I just want to get it on the water and fish.
Tonight's task: At least two coats of top coat.
One note about the primer: I used 5 cans total (probably more like 2 1/2 coats) and got nice even covereage. I did the first coat as a thin flash coat and didn't worry so much about coverage to allow the subsequent coats to grip better. I also wanted to see if there were any issues with curing associated with the Gluvit.
As I mentioned before--with the heaters the Gluvit really baked on. I hope the accellerated drying doesn't lead to warping or cracking of the epoxy, but I didn't really have a choice since the evening temps have been in the low 50's and I needed to keep the temp >70F. I'm at work so I don't have a way to regulate the temp.
The Gluvit sanded nicely and I was able to flush out the few drips/runs with 80 grit sandpaper. I sprayed a small test area on the Gluvit with primer and a small area on the Gluvit with my top coat as well as a control group of each on the bare sanded aluminum. No differences in primer adhesion between the Gluvit coated surface and the bare aluminum when scratched lightly with a putty knife. The non-primed paint in both cases came off completely and cleanly with the putty knife.
Verdict: Primer is mandatory regardless of the surface to be painted, and in my case, no adhesion or curing issues with the Gluvit-primer/paint interaction.
Tonight's task: At least two coats of top coat.
One note about the primer: I used 5 cans total (probably more like 2 1/2 coats) and got nice even covereage. I did the first coat as a thin flash coat and didn't worry so much about coverage to allow the subsequent coats to grip better. I also wanted to see if there were any issues with curing associated with the Gluvit.
As I mentioned before--with the heaters the Gluvit really baked on. I hope the accellerated drying doesn't lead to warping or cracking of the epoxy, but I didn't really have a choice since the evening temps have been in the low 50's and I needed to keep the temp >70F. I'm at work so I don't have a way to regulate the temp.
The Gluvit sanded nicely and I was able to flush out the few drips/runs with 80 grit sandpaper. I sprayed a small test area on the Gluvit with primer and a small area on the Gluvit with my top coat as well as a control group of each on the bare sanded aluminum. No differences in primer adhesion between the Gluvit coated surface and the bare aluminum when scratched lightly with a putty knife. The non-primed paint in both cases came off completely and cleanly with the putty knife.
Verdict: Primer is mandatory regardless of the surface to be painted, and in my case, no adhesion or curing issues with the Gluvit-primer/paint interaction.
tonynoriega
Well-known member
Nice.
You may notice that once the boat if flipped upright, as you get inside and add weight, and step around, that you "may" hear some cracks and pops.
Depending on the thickness of where the gluvit was applied.
I noticed this inside my boat where the thick spots were. Not a big deal. Just my observation.
I think the Rusto I used says specifically on the can something like "do not submerse in water for extended periods of time"...
HA... oh well. Its just a fishing boat right?
You may notice that once the boat if flipped upright, as you get inside and add weight, and step around, that you "may" hear some cracks and pops.
Depending on the thickness of where the gluvit was applied.
I noticed this inside my boat where the thick spots were. Not a big deal. Just my observation.
I think the Rusto I used says specifically on the can something like "do not submerse in water for extended periods of time"...
HA... oh well. Its just a fishing boat right?
stlbluesfan55
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When is your next water test?
Top Coat tonight and cure for 24 hours.
Friday I plan on putting it back on the trailer and painting the interior that's not going to be covered by flooring. I will also final fit the transom pieces and finsh putting the clear coat on those.
Saturday night I'm going to install the decks and wiring for the motor/lights.
Sunday, I will test it out by fishing from it and finish with carpet/ touch ups/ storage next week. I'm going to wait on flooring in case I need to go buy a 55gal drun of flex seal for the inside.
Friday I plan on putting it back on the trailer and painting the interior that's not going to be covered by flooring. I will also final fit the transom pieces and finsh putting the clear coat on those.
Saturday night I'm going to install the decks and wiring for the motor/lights.
Sunday, I will test it out by fishing from it and finish with carpet/ touch ups/ storage next week. I'm going to wait on flooring in case I need to go buy a 55gal drun of flex seal for the inside.
Kismet
Well-known member
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361747#p361747 said:
It's gonna be fine. Relax. Dial back the perfection meter to "enjoyably acceptable."
As I understand it, this is recreation as you soften your focus on tasks.
Gonna be fine.
stlbluesfan55
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Oh kismet, this is sworrior at his most relaxed. In fact he can smoke a cigar and watch paint dry for fun (and keep a record of the event)! :LOL2:
tonynoriega
Well-known member
Ha... I have been known to drink a six pack whilest watching paint cure.
Starting to take shape. I wheeled the boat out into the driveway and started laying out the decking. Also got the trolling motor--a 55# Power DriveV2 with 48in shaft. I got the removable mounting plate because I plan to store the boat up North during the winter.
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Do I need to pre drill things like trolling motor mounting holes before I put on the carpeting? It's easier for me to do carpet first, but I don't have any experience drilling or cutting into a carpeted surface.
Another learning opportunity.
The batteries are 1 inch taller than the rear bench. That I plan to use as a rear casting deck. Can I laminate 2 3/4" pieces of plywood for the rear bench and then make my rear casting deck on top of that? Doing this would only place the rear deck 2" below the top wall rails.
I could always leave the rear open, but thatwould expose the batteries and two bank charger to the elements. I also planon storing a future gas tank under there when and if Iget an outboard. Below are some reference pictures.
M also debating bulding a battery holddown or using battery boxes. Thoughts?
The batteries are 1 inch taller than the rear bench. That I plan to use as a rear casting deck. Can I laminate 2 3/4" pieces of plywood for the rear bench and then make my rear casting deck on top of that? Doing this would only place the rear deck 2" below the top wall rails.
I could always leave the rear open, but thatwould expose the batteries and two bank charger to the elements. I also planon storing a future gas tank under there when and if Iget an outboard. Below are some reference pictures.
M also debating bulding a battery holddown or using battery boxes. Thoughts?
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Whats the best way. (Ie easiest) way to attach the plywood to the seats? I was planning on using self yapping stainless sheet metal screws since I don't have access to the seat interior. Will that have enough holding power. I'd rather not use epoxy in case I have to remove the seats later for a remodel.
