Multi-position fish finder mounting solution?

[NateW]

I’d really like to come up with an elegant fish finder mounting solution that allows me to re-position a single head unit at either the bow or rear of my 14’ Starcraft V. I know “serious” fisherman have dedicated bow and console units, but I feel like there must be a way to make a single unit work at both ends of a 14’ boat, right? I’m looking at a Humminbird Helix with side imaging and would really like to be able to reach the unit while using the outboard to scan for cover and also from the front casting deck while fishing. Will be using a single rear-mounted transducer. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[GTS225]

Sure! One of those rod holders that use a gunwale mounted socket. Fabricate a mounting bracket, utilizing the rod holder part, and mount sockets wherever you wish. Pop it out of the socket when you drop anchor, move it to the bow and pop it in. Haul in the big ones.

Take pics to share!

Roger

 

[DaleH]

Yes, but ... the bracket is the easy part ... the transducer & power wiring ... not so much!

Unless you had a long enough run to the bow where you could ‘coil’ the 2 runs simply when using it in the stern?

Or, figure out wiring for max length away forward, then secure Xducer/Pwr wires at middle of boat with enough ‘extra’ slack (6-8’?) to position wiring either forward or aft to the unit.

 

[LDUBS]

You can get a second power cord from Humminbird which would allow you to plug-in at each location. Sadly, Humminbird doesn't make a splitter that allows two head units off of one transducer. So, in my mind, elegant in this case would be to coil the transducer cable like DaleH suggests so you would have enough to move the head unit. Maybe use some velcro straps to hang the coil up out of the way.

Humminbird does have networking capability between two head units off one transducer via ethernet. At least I think that is what I read. I honestly don't understand it and am not sure what it even means (I would need to ask my grandchildren- haha). Seems like a costly approach since it requires a second head unit.

 

[user 26281]

Some of the newer units can mirror the display to a tablet or phone. No wiring involved, Uses the WiFi to cast the screen, some have apps so you can also control the unit from the tablet.

For me it was cheaper to put a 4” Garmin on the bow, than to buy the cables and hardware needed to move my side scan unit around.

 

[DaleH]

... networking capability between two head units off one transducer via ethernet. At least I think that is what I read. I honestly don't understand it and am not sure what it even means (I would need to ask my grandchildren- haha).

OMG ... now THAT is funny! Thanks, I need the laugh today =D> !

 

[MrGiggles]

The easiest would be one of the newer Garmins with the quick release mount, and pick up another dock and a transducer for the front. Once you get enough money saved up, you can get another Garmin head unit, snap it in, and go.

There is really no good way to rig it so the transducer can be easily connected at the bow and the console. If that is what you want, just get a ram mount and swivel the console unit 180* so you can see it from the deck.

Only the Garmin GPSMap series ($$$) will mirror to a tablet.

 

[maintenanceguy]

I like MrGiggles idea best. If the rear bench seat of your 14' boat puts you 3' from the transom and you typically stand 2' from the point of the bow, your "useable area" of the boat is only 9' long. Put the display in the middle of that and you'll never be more than 4-1/2 feet from the display.

 

[NateW]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone! I think I came up with a pretty good solution that allows the mount to be easily moved and flexibly positioned. As a photographer by trade I was familiar with some of the lighting mount gear out there and repurposed a pivot-arm, camera platform https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1219378-REG/impact_20_pivot_arm_with.html and super clamp https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/824360-REG/impact_cc_106r_super_clamp_with_ratchet.html. I fabricated a simple aluminum mounting plate and everything came together perfectly. The clamp is ideally shaped for gripping the square gunnel edge and the whole system is rated to support up to 8lbs. It securely held my Helix 7 (about 4 pounds I think) in any position, even at speed in choppy water. It does take a bit of hand strength to fully tighten it, but it’s not too bad. The camera platform perfectly offsets the unit, centering its weight over the mounting point. I loved being able to reposition the unit for standing, sitting, driving, etc. The transducer cable is routed to come out from below the first bench seat near the bow and has enough slack to allow the unit to be positioned either at the bow, or near the rear seat while scanning for cover with the tiller outboard. I used a DC “cigarette lighter” plug for power and have outlets at both the bow and rear of the boat, though I may end up using a small lithium battery due to interference when both are connected to the main battery and the trolling motor is running at anything other than full power. I’m happy to answer any questions! Here are some pics:

 

[GTS225]

BRAVO, Nate! No damage or holes to the boat, and quite functional for your purpose. =D>

Roger

 

[LDUBS]

BRAVO, Nate! No damage or holes to the boat, and quite functional for your purpose. =D>

Roger

X2 -- that is very cool. Well done.

 

[hunterguy86]

For what it’s worth, I’m playing with mirroring my iPad to my Lowrance Elite Ti2. So far it’s working very well. And, bonus, my kids like it. We tried it out the other day while trolling for bass for a few minutes. I let them hold the iPad and watch the downscan. It keeps them happy while they have snacks under the Bimini to get out of the sun for a bit.

Seems to work pretty decent in the sun too, I just use a different color pallet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk