New 2017 25hp 4 stroke efi yamaha

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muddywaders said:
Florida Native what was your previous motor and is your new Yamaha the 2017 model?I am considering a four-stroke Yamaha 25 and I am worried it wont have enough torque.I am currently running a 25hp 2-stroke Yamaha on a 14' v-hull that I use on the ocean.When I'm pushing through big waves the boat will slow the revs will drop and I have to throttle up to get back on plane and the fuel consumption goes up.I tried going down to a 10 1/2" prop which helped but now it burns even more fuel.The old 30hp 2-stroke that I previously ran would push through waves at a constant rpm and actually used less fuel than the current 25hp.I want better fuel economy but the performance of the four-stroke Yamaha would have to be as good or better than my current motor.

I used to have a 25 Evinrude 2 stroke and it weighted maybe 125 or so. I have a 2016 Yamaha so it's still the heavier one. My boat planes much better and I have more in between speeds with the newer motor. When I had my old motor it rode like a tin can, bumpy and basically WOT all the time.

I have a 16' though and it's pretty wide, if I put that motor on a 14' idk how well it would go over. I think it would be too heavy. If you could get the lighter Yamaha and I think that might be a good option. I'll post a picture of the rig later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
turbotodd said:
Florida_Native said:
jy951 said:
I saw the info on that new yamaha 25 also the other day. Its about time they made it fuel injected. I believe the the honda is still carbureted. I'm sure many like carbs, but I'll take fuel injection any day. I went shopping for a new 25 several years ago and it was the etec by a huge margin. If I had to buy a new 25 today, I'd take the etec. Assuming all stock motors, I doubt you'll find a more powerful 25. No maintenance for 3 years, no timing belts, valve adjustments, oil changes, etc.

It was basically fuel injected before. Yes it does have a carburetor, but there is no choke. You just prime the primer ball and it's ready to start.

And again, the ETEC is no better than any of the 4 stroke offerings. It's heavy (for a 2 stroke), complex, takes special oil unless it's "tuned" by the selling dealer, ugly, etc. What is that thing? 160 lbs? Come on...I thought the main selling point of sticking with a 2 stroke was lighter weight. Blew that right out of the water. No timing belt. When's the last time anyone's heard of a 25hp Yamaha needing a timing belt? I've replaced ONE in the 25 years I've messed with motors, and only because Mr. Customer requested it (there was nothing wrong with the OEM belt). Valve adjustment? When I worked at the dealer, we sold about 400 F25's. Out of those, I think maybe 10 had valve adjustments...or more specifically valve CHECK. I don't recall having to adjust them, usually spot on. Mine is the same way.

There's a lot more bad info on this site than one can shake a stick at, and it's not just from one user. What I see a lot of is folks that are die hard 2 smokers spewing their biased opinions, among other things. One user said a Yamaha 2 stroke twin carb 25 was a turd. Compared to what? A 3 cylinder? They both make 25hp bone stock....seen it on a dyno with my own eyes. Just the same as all of the 4 stroke motors with the exception of the new 25, seen them all make 25hp on a dyno. One user says a 2 stroke will spin a 15" prop. True. But let's not forget that some 2 stroke motors also have a higher gearcase ratio. Many have a 2.08 ratio, some were higher and those will be able to make use of more pitch. The merc big foot was one, so was the high-thrust 25hp Yamaha. Where the misconception also came in on that note was that the 2 stroke motors are a little less sensitive to prop selection...and I've seen a few that were so grossly overpropped that the owner didn't know any better, for instance a 25hp 2 stroke twin carb with a 13" SRA stuck on it. Did it turn it? Yep. Customer's complaint was that the engine overheats and goes into limp mode, but only with a heavy load. Well my goodness, lug the thing around at 4000 RPM full throttle with a load on it, at full throttle, and yes it sure can overheat. That's hard on the pistons, rings, everything actually. I gave him my spare 10 1/2" prop and told him to try it. Fixed-and went 6 mph faster with the "smaller" prop, with the same load. Wouldn't plane before. But I have no clue what I'm talking about I guess. But on the 4 stroke stuff, they're more sensitive to prop selection. MOST users/tuners think that since it comes with a 10 1/2" pitch, that a 13" should make it go 3 mph faster. Nope. Lots of times maybe 1.5 mph but more importantly it lugs the pee out of the engine, consuming more fuel, giving the user a feeling of being a slug at anything less than full throttle. No tach to verify that it's running close to where it should in most cases. I get the call often at work. "Can I put a bigger prop on for more speed"? Yep. But it might or might not go faster. What's your current maximum RPM? Response....uhhh....I don't know how do I know that? My first thought is get a tach and then call me back. Without the data, we're just shooting blanks and hoping something will hit a target. Another thing, the HULL has a LOT to do with speed. A purpose built hull, built for speed and speed only in a straight line, with a bone stock 25hp motor can easily achieve 50mph if it's set up right, with the right prop. But a jon, not likely to happen. Some jons are faster than others. Some handle better than others. But for a person to say "well my 25hp is faster than brand X" is meaningless without knowing, again, all the data. Hull type, drag, atmospheric conditions, etc. On that note, I am a member on another board and I see the 25hp arguements often. Many claimed that their bone stock 25hp motors on their Edge 550 will go 38 mph. I called one user out because I knew he was local, and said let's go to the local lake. His response was that his boat doesn't go that fast on that lake. I'm like What? Then it came out...he was going full throttle DOWNRIVER on a local small river, which also happens to have a 8 mph current at times. So out of curiousity, I ran mine...mine's typically 29.5-29.8 on the right water conditions, at 6200 RPM. GPS upriver averaged 24 mph. Down river, in the current, 36. Stopped, shut motor off and measured current drifting speed-7.8 mph in most areas except the 2 narrow shoals that were a hair over 8.

Listen, folks, I've been that die hard 2 stroke guy. When the 4 stroke stuff started getting sorta popular, back in the 1990's, I said I'd never own one. I worked on one or two Honda's (carbs usually), worked on a Yamaha or two, usually maintenance related (rarely a repair), but continued to use my twin carb 25, and very seldom my 3 cylinder 25. In '06 I believe, I run across a guy who had a F25 on a Grumman 1542, for a great price. Figured I'd buy the whole rig and sell the motor. It sat it's entire life, used less than 1 hour every year to run from the ramp to a duck blind across the river. I got it running and decided I had to try it out. About 3 months later I sold my twin carb 25, no use for it after falling in love with the 4 stroke. And that's what I said too, I didn't want no oil change hassle, no adjustment, belt, weight...but I'm here to tell ya, from my own personal experience, that it's worth the "extra hassle"-which again is so minute that it's ridiculous to even bring it up. It's just one more of BRP's gimmicks so that they can justify their 2 stroke, and many have embraced it. And in my case, it ain't just Yamaha...I also have had a Tohatsu 25 at one point, a Tohatsu 20hp (with power tilt), a Honda 25hp, and for a brief while, had access to a Merc 25 (tohatsu). I like the 3 cylinder motors a little better but it comes at a cost....weight (and lots of it).

Just because you see them all make peak hp of 25hp does not mean they will perform the same.
 
So what you are saying is that Yamaha (the people who manufacture the motor) don't know how to property break in an outboard? That's about the dumbest thing I've ever heard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/quote]
I'm saying if you know a 4 stroke outboard, you can't and will not set the rings hands down,babying a outboard. Their(again recommended) break in is for liability only,nothing more.It doesn't take 10 hrs to break in any outboard today because tolerances are so close that once the rings are set what else needs to be done,nothing. Setting the rings are thee most important thing to do on any outboard besides warming it up properly. Why do you think so many of mercury outboards were having issues making oil,because they baby their engine from the jump and never create enough heat and pressure to set the rings.Going easy on a 4 stroke outboard is the worst thing for it and if your outboard has the oil making issue your out of luck because you get one chance to seat them right. Do research and you will learn alot about this . In time it will change,it's a proven fact if you don't run a new outboard up to full temperature to create heat to set the rings you more than likely will make oil or not get 100% power out of the outboard. I never said beat the poop out of it,just run it like you normally would but wot bursts are a must to create heat and pressure to set the rings,I'm just stating what so many are starting to realize. No I'm not smarter then yamaha or any of them I just know 4 stroke rings are hard and need pressure and babying it won't work.
 
This is a quote from boats.com,from one of mercuy's oil specialists on a new engine and breaking it in. That is coming straight from mercury marine. The only thing that needs sufficient break in is rings,that is it,that is just a known fact of every outboard engine,so there is no need to baby a new outboard whatsoever from the box.

"In most cases the form, fit, and function of new engine parts is of sufficiently good quality surface finish, and good tolerance dimensionally, that it is not necessary to break-in new hardware,” says Mercury oil specialist Frank Kelley.
 
scoobeb said:
This is a quote from boats.com,from one of mercuy's oil specialists on a new engine and breaking it in. That is coming straight from mercury marine. The only thing that needs sufficient break in is rings,that is it,that is just a known fact of every outboard engine,so there is no need to baby a new outboard whatsoever from the box.

"In most cases the form, fit, and function of new engine parts is of sufficiently good quality surface finish, and good tolerance dimensionally, that it is not necessary to break-in new hardware,” says Mercury oil specialist Frank Kelley.
yes I always take the word of a sales man as the word of god. Just go out and jam up a brand new motor, yep.
 
timsmcm said:
scoobeb said:
This is a quote from boats.com,from one of mercuy's oil specialists on a new engine and breaking it in. That is coming straight from mercury marine. The only thing that needs sufficient break in is rings,that is it,that is just a known fact of every outboard engine,so there is no need to baby a new outboard whatsoever from the box.

"In most cases the form, fit, and function of new engine parts is of sufficiently good quality surface finish, and good tolerance dimensionally, that it is not necessary to break-in new hardware,” says Mercury oil specialist Frank Kelley.
yes I always take the word of a sales man as the word of god. Just go out and jam up a brand new motor, yep.

Awww..the coolaid is pretty good..don't spoil it..
 
Saleman,who said salesman. Please explain to how you will jam up an outboard if you run some wot from the start? If the engine is a lemon or has issues from the get go no easy or hard running will fix that and that means it was just broken from jump street. The guy works directly for mercury to by the way, this guy isn't some random Saleman at a marina. Hey,no one is telling you or anyone else how to break in a engine. I'm just telling you the facts and passing on some helpful tips. You follow what makes u happy. If people baby their engines out of the box and you don't set the rings asap your crap out of luck is the nice term,lol. You can follow whatever break in you want,that is why we live in america,freedom to do as we want. I'm just passing on good friendly advice.

Also I love when I hear well if I don't follow the break in to a T they will void my warranty, that is absolute nonsense and so untrue. Again read what the manual says,it is just the (manufacturers recommendation) on how to break in your engine. You can do it anyway you want,whatever makes you the happiest . I said a few yrs back in time every outboard will be efi of dfi and it's starting to slowly happen,it time this break in process in the book will change,when,who knows but it will one day maybe sooner than later if they want to stop this oil making issue for good. No engine needs 10hrs,to be broken in,an hr or so and she should be good to go,give it some time it will change.


All I know is if I spend say $15k on a engine and I were to follow the break in by basically taking it easy for a few hrs like it says which is thee most critical time to seat the rings and you have an oil making issue with your engine,guess who is fixing that,more than likely not them,you will. This is no secret,it's been proven over and over. A while back the 115hp yamaha and merc,(same powerhead at the time)were having big problems with this. Motor after motor,after motor was coming in due to all of them making oil,what was the answer by merc, to many people are babying their engines from the get go and they are not seating the rings. Why this hasn't been fixed yet as far as the break in process changing is a mystery but in time it will. Till then people really should self educate on this because it's the most important part of the engine working properly. Who wants to constantly drain oil because fuel gets in it,I'm sure not every single engine will get affected by this but there will be plenty that do. If you don't get your engine up to temperature your doing more harm then good. All the break in process they recommend is so if something were to happen early out of the box and your doing a relatively low rpm they maybe able to catch it before going wot and a serious catastrophe happens ,it's a liability thing,nothing more. I have never claimed to be smarter then a manufacturer or anyone else but this has been an issue for yrs now and the manufacturers should fix this. These engines of today are way different then yrs ago and don't need much more then a good hr or so to seat the rings,once that is done just vary the rpms as we would do normal anyways and there should never be an outboard making oil other then to much trolling can do so. But again,that is easy to fix. If trolling all day ,at the end of the day take it around the lake to get it up to temperature(wot) and there will be no issues. We as people need to self educate ourselves when it comes to this stuff. The bottom line is doing some wot bursts will do way more good for a brand new engine then,babying it from the get go. I go by results,most people who have had oil making issues babies their engines from the jump,the people who are not afraid to open it up,not abuse,open it up have had 0 issues with making oil other then from trolling,that is a fact not a guess or opinion.
 
I apologize if I offended anyone. I just wanted to try and help people by doing alot of digging. I'm not trying to convince anyone to break in a engine hard,I just want people to know you have that option and should really do your research before running a new engine and having issues that can't be corrected as with the oil making issue in general.So based on results so far breaking in a engine by babying it seems to do way more harm then good from everything I have read for many yrs now and that includes manufacturers themselves chiming in on the subject . I won't speak of it anymore. Back to our regularly scheduled program of the 25hp efi yamaha, lol.
 
Oh my, I missed this thread completely. I'm afraid to go back and read it. Let's remember that for every member on this thread there are probably 100 fold of guests who will also read these posts. I would love them to join our friendly, family-oriented, respectful, helpful site. :D

I love the collaboration we have built here, and to let you guys know, I get PM's and emails all the time letting me know how much people have learned from surfing our site. Keep it up guys!

Jim
 
Well, I'm still waiting for my chance to break one in.

I made the 50 mile one way trip to Cabela's on Saturday. I showed a manager my receipt for the Alumacraft utility boat and motor I paid nearly $10,000 cash for in December.

I was told 8-10 weeks for the boat, early to mod-March for the motor.

I have neither.

My salesman wasn't at work, so a different salesman made a copy of my receipt and said he's sorry it out and give me an update Monday.

It's Tuesday now. No word. It's been 103 days since I ordered this boat and the Yamaha 25.

Has anyone gotten their new F25 yet?

I kinda want this combo, a light 285lb V-16 Alumacraft with a EFI Yam 25 tiller sounds like a really efficient setup.

Lund and Tracker have boats that are minimally more money, with more features (and weight).

Should I ask for my money back from Cabela's or keep waiting? Boat season has started in AZ.



BTW, in the motorcycle world Yamaha pulls twice the HP out of half the CCs. I usually take 30 minutes over a couple heat cycles to break in a new motocross bike. Years ago, I was changing rings at 20 hours and pistons at 40 hours, so a 10 hour break in would've been absurd. Still, aluminum (pistons) has a higher heat expansion rate than steel (cylinder). If the piston of your new engine is on the plus side of the tolerance and your cylinder bore is on the minus side, then making a lot of heat WOT on a *brand new* engine might be a recipe for a squeaked or seized piston. I squeaked a few new Honda CR500 pistons in my day. The open class 2-stroke was a PITA because the bigger piston meant more expansion (vs a 125 or 250), so it was near impossible to have it not rattle & slap the skirt when cold, yet not seize WOT in a long sand wash. The cure was to live with a little piston slap, do a very long warm up each race day pre-race, and religiously check for cracks in the piston skirt by looking through the exhaust port. Some racers, in long straights, would occasionally hold the kill switch for a second with the throttle pinned to douche the top-end with cool gasoline.

Ultimately, I think for 99% of people the 'break in procedure' makes no difference, and for the 1%er who's engine is a lemon, it's probably got a defect that no method of break in would've cured.

A 25hp outboard isn't a race engine or phallic extension. I'm not worried about whether it makes 24.8 or 25.1 HP, as long as it performs appropriately, efficiently, and doesn't strand me.

Heck, I'd be happy if Yamaha would simply produce what I paid for!!
 
Ultimately, I think for 99% of people the 'break in procedure' makes no difference, and for the 1%er who's engine is a lemon, it's probably got a defect that no method of break in would've cured.

I couldn't of said it any better myself . Nothing will cure a lemon,not running easy or hard. If it's defective from the factory then no break in process will cure or help it. I have had 4 brand new engines I kept for 5-7yrs or longer and I never broke one in except for my way,hard but not abusing it. All my engines created tremendous power to weight ratio. I had a 9.8hp 2 stroke tohatsu that ran a 12 ft light alumacraft boat so fast it barely touched the water. That motor was bought in 2001 for $1400 and I know who has it now and it runs awesome 16yrs later,not one issue . $1400 was the good old days,lol. 59lbs that motor weighed,I should've never got rid of it,lol.
 
DaisyCutter said:
I ordered the new Yamaha F25 last week. It won't be available until mid March. I will definitely post a review once I get it.

On the spec sheet, the Suzuki initially seems like it may be a stronger performer, with more displacement and an extra cylinder over the Yamaha. The Suzuki is cheaper too. I really contemplated the Suzuki. But consider both Yamaha and Suzuki build 50hp, 449cc, single cylinder high performance motocross bikes.. I can attest that my 2008 Yamaha 450 motocross bike has never been rebuilt, and still runs strong. So Yamaha should have no problem getting 25 reliable horsepower out of a ~430cc twin.


The biggest reason I chose the Yamaha over the Suzuki, is that Suzuki is teetering on the edge of bankruptcy every other year, and there are a lot of service and warranty horror stories. The Suzuki website is really crude. Half of their motorcycles are only offered every other year it seems. Suzuki cars have evaporated from Planet Earth. I have low faith in the Suzuki warranty, especially compared to Yamaha.
Just wondering what you paid for yours because boats.net has the 15 inch shaft ,manual start for $3100 and change. That is a really great price on a 25hp yamaha.
 
I don't know yet what the price will be. I ordered the Alumacraft V-16 on December 23rd with a Merc 20 hp and a bimini top, gel met battery and other doodads. I paid $92XX.XX at the time.

I changed the motor to the new Yam F25 "C", with all the options a month later. It'll be close to $5,000, but I don't know exactly.

Thursday I finally heard from my Cabela's salesman. He said the "load date" for my Alumacraft is April 28th. It'll be 120+ days waiting. He says the new Yamaha 25s are available and won't be a problem to get.


So my frustrations should be directed at Alumacraft and their arrangement with Cabelas, not Yamaha.
 
So your getting a tiller version or remote?Your getting all the works then to,power tilt and trim and electric start?$5000 seems some what steep,i hope the price is better than that especially waiting all this time.When you get it please let me know how she runs,i'm extremely interested especially knowing they are only $3100.That is a killer deal on any 25hp.
 
Local dealer hasn't gotten any in yet, either. I asked when, the dealership principal-whom I was talking to-pointed across the room at a guy standing there talking to a salesman. That was the Yamaha rep. So I asked him directly. Nobody knows when they'll ship. Not even the rep, going on to say that many dealers don't want any yet because they're still loaded up with F25A's and B's (2015 and 2016's), and we all know that once the C'***** the floor, ain't nobody gonna want the old ones. So maybe Yamaha has decided to hold them until the dealers deplete current stocks. Don't know.
 
They will have to blow those other heavy 25hp yamaha's out with a clearance price. I see some dealers doing it already. The f25s are coming way down in price to get rid of then to make room for the new ones. Hopefully you get it soon.
 
I hardly ever go to the yamaha suzuki dealer here, it's only a half hour away but know where near anything. I did go today though, the water impeller kit for my old 86 30hp mariner (yamaha made)was only $87 canadian....at the Mercury place they wanted $67 just for the impeller and that wasn't in stock.anyways while I was there ask if they had any of the new 25hp yamaha in, she said 7 (3 electric 4 pull) all still in the crates though. She told me 5 were already sold but had 2 pull starts left....quoted me a price of $4500 canadian taxes in. Personally, I think it's going to be a little small for my 1652 and I also want to wait a bit to see more real person reviews.
 
Zum,i'm sure that 25 hp yamaha will push your 1652 with no issues but if you can get the 25 hp efi suzuki for the same price it's only 10lbs more and has a 3rd cylinder and more displacement for more power. 6yr warranty also is nice.Plus it's been out a few yrs now and people love them.Any kinks like most new toys have if any have been i'm sure ironed out.I had a 25 hp suzuki and like a dummy sold it.I wanted the 2 stroke and to be totally honest whether anyone believes me or not the 25 hp suzuki has every bit of power as most 2 stroke 25's. Imo hands down the best outboard to buy in the 25 hp class as of now.Yeah,maybe a 25 hp etec could be better but you will pay near a thousand more for it once it's all said and done.If your looking for a 25 hp now the suzuki is the best money can buy imo. i 'm sure the yamaha will be just as good because they make awesome engines but that 3rd cylinder and extra displacement would come in very handy for you.
 
My boat and new 25 Yamaha ship on April 28th. So I should have it soon after.

I'm dying here.
 
DaisyCutter said:
My boat and new 25 Yamaha ship on April 28th. So I should have it soon after.

I'm dying here.
Be sure to give some reviews maybe even a video....the people want to know....
 

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