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Rhyan Craft: Now BRINE CRAFT
- Thread starter Brine
- Start date
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Zum
Well-known member
Well done...you've done alot of work,looks great.
JRHOADES20
Well-known member
Good job, I definately dont think you need to worry about your casting deck being unsturdy.
altimas
Well-known member
Awesome rebuild. Giving me a lot of inspiration. What is the length of that boat?
altimas
Well-known member
So if you had to do it over, would you use the angle that didn't require the spacer?
Also what do you cut the Aluminum with?
Sorry for all the questions... I have a lot of free time on the computer at work so I am researching a lot of this.
Also what do you cut the Aluminum with?
Sorry for all the questions... I have a lot of free time on the computer at work so I am researching a lot of this.
Troutman3000
Well-known member
WOW that thing is built like a tank!
Froggy
Well-known member
=D> =D> =D> Bravo! "the Tin Rocket ship"!!!!
altimas said:
With the way I have my uprights spaced, I would think that the 6063 (angle without the radius) would have worked fine, but I don't know enough about the alloys to have a good understanding as to how much of a difference it would be. As noted in a previous post, the 6063 is roughly half the strength of the 6061, I just don't know what that really equates to as a deck in a jon boat.
If I were doing it over, I wouldn't go the same route with the spacer. I'd probably just use tubing for the whole build. The only reason I would use angle is to make angle brackets to attach the tubuing. I am paying $27 for a 24ft stick of 1/16 tubing. I might consider using 1/8" if I wasn't going to have as much support from below as I do now.
I cut all of the aluminum angle and tube with a 12" mitre saw with a wood blade. I can get the specifics if you'd like, but I know that it was just a blade that was on there from when I did a pergo installation. I'm not sure without looking of the tooth count though. It worked good, and is still going strong.
No worries on the questions, that's why we're here. To learn.
altimas
Well-known member
Wow that is an amazing price on the tubing from everywhere I have priced it.
altimas
Well-known member
Fairfield is pretty close actually. Worth the drive if I can find it for that much for sure. Do you remember what the Angle cost you?
tccanoe
Well-known member
Brine, When looking at the 6061 vs the 6063, don't you think most of the load will be vertical, as opposed to twisting or bending, and therefore negate much of the strength difference? Just a thought.
tccanoe said:
Don't know. I'm not a structural engineer and don't have the 6063 to compare it to. Given the way I've framed out my front deck, I'm sure I could have used 6063 and not noticed a difference; however, I'm not going to replace it to find out :LOL2:
Maybe I'll try out the 6063 on the rear deck.
Headed over to Bassboy Enterprises today. (Ok, it's not a real company name, but after seeing the setup at his place, it felt like a good name). I brought the boat over to have bassboy put his eyes on it and to get some guidance on some finishing details. Naturally, I couldn't leave without letting bassboy show off some of his skills on the boat, so after a brief meet and greet, I turned him loose as he proceeded to give me a few TIG lessons.
First thing I wanted fixed were a series of 3/16 holes in the gunwale that previously had rivets holding the side console, and (I think) the old trolling motor bracket. I had originally used aluminum epoxy in the holes, and even without using the boat, it had failed and the epoxy in many of the holes had simply "collapsed" into the gunwale.
Next, the transom had a crack at the top which was simply making an easy place for water to infiltrate the plywood, and again...I had unsuccessfully used aluminum epoxy to fill the area, and after a few whacks with the ball peen hammer, he fused the crack back together.
cont....
First thing I wanted fixed were a series of 3/16 holes in the gunwale that previously had rivets holding the side console, and (I think) the old trolling motor bracket. I had originally used aluminum epoxy in the holes, and even without using the boat, it had failed and the epoxy in many of the holes had simply "collapsed" into the gunwale.
Next, the transom had a crack at the top which was simply making an easy place for water to infiltrate the plywood, and again...I had unsuccessfully used aluminum epoxy to fill the area, and after a few whacks with the ball peen hammer, he fused the crack back together.
cont....
The last order of business was some metal fab and welding to stiffen up my rod locker hatches, which required cutting some "feet" to attach to the lid and then welding them on.
Here's part of the fab work...(notice the TinBoats shirt
)
and then attaching the "feet" to the hatch
Sorry I don't have finished pics of the work to show yet, but I felt like I had already worn out my welcome lol.... Not to mention, by the time I got home, another thunderstorm had rolled in, so I unhooked the boat and tarped it immediately.
Thanks again for the help bassboy. You are an exceptional young man and a great study in doing things the right way.
Here's part of the fab work...(notice the TinBoats shirt
)
and then attaching the "feet" to the hatch
Sorry I don't have finished pics of the work to show yet, but I felt like I had already worn out my welcome
lol.... Not to mention, by the time I got home, another thunderstorm had rolled in, so I unhooked the boat and tarped it immediately. Thanks again for the help bassboy. You are an exceptional young man and a great study in doing things the right way.
Brine said:Sorry I don't have finished pics of the work to show yet, but I felt like I had already worn out my welcome
Hope I didn't give you that impression
. I thought you had somewhere to be when you left out so quick. Thanks for the complement. Anytime you need anything, just give me a shout. It's no problem whatsoever.
