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Rhyan Craft: Now BRINE CRAFT
- Thread starter Brine
- Start date
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fullmoon
Well-known member
ben2go
Well-known member
Brine has a V hull which is harder to bolt a bow eye to.Plus they crack the aluminum where they pass thru the hull.
fullmoon
Well-known member
Ben2go, you can't see the other side of mine, but it ties into the front deck as well with another aluminum plate added. It's solid as a rock, with no flex at all. It won't crack the aluminum on my application. Granted it would be tougher to do with the v-hull.
ben2go
Well-known member
fullmoon said:
Yes and you have a flat bow,Brine does not.He has a V hull.
fullmoon
Well-known member
Yes, I saw the picture of his bow. I'm only trying to give him an alternative idea he could do himself without having to take his rig to a welder. There are two, maybe three layers of aluminum there if there is another piece inside to match the one outside. If done properly I don't see a problem with a bolt-on. Just my .02
fullmoon
Well-known member
Brine, one more idea. Could you lower your winch stand enough to get the bow stop below the eye? It looks like you have some room to lower it about 2".
Ben/FM,
Thanks for the responses.
FM,
I think Ben was explaining that my hull (the point of contact with the eye) is not flat. It is at a point. I'm familiar with how this would have to bolt on, because I had to do it with the v-hull I currently fish out of. It entailed bending washers to conform to the inside of the boat as well as a bunch of silicone to fill in the voids. It works, and it would on my new boat, but I would prefer a weld. Indeed, if the front of my boat was flat like yours, I would be bolting it on. Yours looks good and sturdy with the extra aluminum you put up there.
If I was happy with the eye the way it is, I would probably do as you suggest (and take my chances with an accident), but I don't like that the eye looks to be very thin where all of the pressure is applied by the winch. Because I fish elecric only, I don't get to power load the boat and often times I am pulling the boat in excess of 2 feet to the bow stop with the winch. I don't ever want to have to worry about that eye opening up while I'm winching it in.
I left a message with the welding course instructor at the technical college across the street yesterday. I'm interested to see if it's something they would do.
Thanks for the responses.
FM,
I think Ben was explaining that my hull (the point of contact with the eye) is not flat. It is at a point. I'm familiar with how this would have to bolt on, because I had to do it with the v-hull I currently fish out of. It entailed bending washers to conform to the inside of the boat as well as a bunch of silicone to fill in the voids. It works, and it would on my new boat, but I would prefer a weld. Indeed, if the front of my boat was flat like yours, I would be bolting it on. Yours looks good and sturdy with the extra aluminum you put up there.
Yes I could, but I've read alot of opinions that say the eye should be positioned beneath the bow stop as a safety precaution such that in a car accident (either my car coming to an abrupt stop, or the boat being rear ended by another vehicle) the eye on the bow will make minimze the chance that the boat ends up on the roof of my car. Unfortunately, this is probably more of a reality where I live (Metro Atlanta) than for others.fullmoon said:
If I was happy with the eye the way it is, I would probably do as you suggest (and take my chances with an accident), but I don't like that the eye looks to be very thin where all of the pressure is applied by the winch. Because I fish elecric only, I don't get to power load the boat and often times I am pulling the boat in excess of 2 feet to the bow stop with the winch. I don't ever want to have to worry about that eye opening up while I'm winching it in.
I left a message with the welding course instructor at the technical college across the street yesterday. I'm interested to see if it's something they would do.
fullmoon
Well-known member
That's a good point about the eye being below the stop. That would lock it in solid. Good luck with the welding. Yeah, Brine I know what you mean-I drive Atlanta everyday, and I will need to strap mine down really good, as my eye is above my stop. My trailer is almost done. I'm having to get VIN # and police inspections due to no VIN on the trailer as I bought it. That's a whole story in itself.
Nothing like taking your time to get a project done...LOL
Finally made a new bow eye. As I had mentioned, I had a piece of .25 Angle Aluminum that had come with the boat that apparently was set up on the transom for the big motor. I ended up just cutting a piece out from it:
to make this:
If you'll notice, the new eye has alot more material at the front of it, as to not concern myself with pulling out the front, as well as the new size of the hole now accomodates my new wench hook.
I found a guy local that has done some really neat aluminum welding products, and he has offered to attach the new eye, and piece in the two 1.25" holes that are shown earlier in this thread for $100. I may have him do a third .75 hole that currently has aluminum epoxy in it just for the piece of mind. I had considering using Aluminum patches that would be riveted on to remedy the holes, but this seems like a better choice for me, as I'm fairly certain that after he is done, and the boat is painted, you won't be able to tell that there ever was ever a hole. I still need to put lights on the trailer and carpet on the bunks just to get the trailer street legal so I can take it to him. Santa has already said yes to those items, so look for updates soon.
Finally made a new bow eye. As I had mentioned, I had a piece of .25 Angle Aluminum that had come with the boat that apparently was set up on the transom for the big motor. I ended up just cutting a piece out from it:
to make this:
If you'll notice, the new eye has alot more material at the front of it, as to not concern myself with pulling out the front, as well as the new size of the hole now accomodates my new wench hook.
I found a guy local that has done some really neat aluminum welding products, and he has offered to attach the new eye, and piece in the two 1.25" holes that are shown earlier in this thread for $100. I may have him do a third .75 hole that currently has aluminum epoxy in it just for the piece of mind. I had considering using Aluminum patches that would be riveted on to remedy the holes, but this seems like a better choice for me, as I'm fairly certain that after he is done, and the boat is painted, you won't be able to tell that there ever was ever a hole. I still need to put lights on the trailer and carpet on the bunks just to get the trailer street legal so I can take it to him. Santa has already said yes to those items, so look for updates soon.
Waterwings
Well-known member
Nice work! 8)
Trailer is DONE!
Well...... except for registration.
I'll post some pics of the completed trailer next time I have the boat off. Since my last post, I"ve installed LED Tail lights, LED Clearance Lights, and reflectors at the bow stop, new bunks, finished all 3 wheels and got new tires for them yesterday. As I was finishing up carpeting my bunks, it started to rain, so I scrambled to get the boat on the trailer and tarped so I'll post more pics of the trailer without the boat soon.
Here is how the wheels turned out
Spare
Rust Converter and Primer
No taping because I was putting on new tires
and the wheels completed...
Well...... except for registration.
I'll post some pics of the completed trailer next time I have the boat off. Since my last post, I"ve installed LED Tail lights, LED Clearance Lights, and reflectors at the bow stop, new bunks, finished all 3 wheels and got new tires for them yesterday. As I was finishing up carpeting my bunks, it started to rain, so I scrambled to get the boat on the trailer and tarped so I'll post more pics of the trailer without the boat soon.
Here is how the wheels turned out
Spare
Rust Converter and Primer
No taping because I was putting on new tires
and the wheels completed...
And a little more about the rebuild...
New LED's
Clearance Lights on Clearance :mrgreen:
Herculiner still holding strong
Here is how I attached my bunks. The green pieces are cutting board material cut, stacked, then duct-taped (just to hold them together so I could drill through them) then 2 stainless carraige bolts countersunk in the bunks, holes filled with caulk, then carpeted over.
You'll also notice, I left the carpet short per suggestions to promote the water to drain easier from the bunks. After cutting it with a utility knife, I came back with a heat gun and burnt the edges in an effort to minimize any fraying. I also ended up getting 3 sleeves of stainless staples (about 225 staples I think) for my pneumatic staple gun for $5 =D> . I went to a local tool store, told him what I needed, and all they had were boxes for around $70. I said, can I just buy a few sleeves from the box, and he said..."Sure, how bout $5".
Ready to take it to the welder!
New LED's
Clearance Lights on Clearance :mrgreen:
Herculiner still holding strong
Here is how I attached my bunks. The green pieces are cutting board material cut, stacked, then duct-taped (just to hold them together so I could drill through them) then 2 stainless carraige bolts countersunk in the bunks, holes filled with caulk, then carpeted over.
You'll also notice, I left the carpet short per suggestions to promote the water to drain easier from the bunks. After cutting it with a utility knife, I came back with a heat gun and burnt the edges in an effort to minimize any fraying. I also ended up getting 3 sleeves of stainless staples (about 225 staples I think) for my pneumatic staple gun for $5 =D> . I went to a local tool store, told him what I needed, and all they had were boxes for around $70. I said, can I just buy a few sleeves from the box, and he said..."Sure, how bout $5".
Ready to take it to the welder!
dyeguy1212
Well-known member
wow, looks great! =D> =D>
MeanMouth
Well-known member
Great work, looks real sharp =D>
Henry Hefner
Well-known member
Be proud, you've done a lot of work!
eezerz
Well-known member
very nice job. trailer looks sharp... 
Welding.... DONE!
When I grow up I want to weld Aluminum. :roll:
This part of the build seemed to be one of the more difficult to complete thus far. Naturally, I'm working on a budget; however, the budget wasn't the primary obstacle. There just aren't many people near me who (A) are set up to weld aluminum (B) wanted the job. As it turns out, I found these guys on the internet two days ago, and they did the job yesterday. Total labor was right at 1.5 hrs. Their labor rate is $65/hr + material, and I got the job done for $95. Not to mention, they are 5 minutes from the house. Didn't hurt that the owner likes to fish out of his jon boat, and showed me pics on his camera of some trout he caught last week. Never new they were there, because they are in an industrial park that I'd never been in. They are also a full fabricator, so they have the potential for being used again at somepoint during the rebuild. For any of the GA TinBoaters, here they are: https://www.capitalcitymachine.com/welding.htm Take into consideration, I don't know how to judge their work other than my objectives which were to patch the two holes and attach the bow eye I made.
Here are the holes
Here is the fix
Patches on the inside of the boat which will be covered during mod.
New bow eye attached
Action Footage
Next is purchasing the ACM Panel for the floor
When I grow up I want to weld Aluminum. :roll:
This part of the build seemed to be one of the more difficult to complete thus far. Naturally, I'm working on a budget; however, the budget wasn't the primary obstacle. There just aren't many people near me who (A) are set up to weld aluminum (B) wanted the job. As it turns out, I found these guys on the internet two days ago, and they did the job yesterday. Total labor was right at 1.5 hrs. Their labor rate is $65/hr + material, and I got the job done for $95. Not to mention, they are 5 minutes from the house. Didn't hurt that the owner likes to fish out of his jon boat, and showed me pics on his camera of some trout he caught last week. Never new they were there, because they are in an industrial park that I'd never been in. They are also a full fabricator, so they have the potential for being used again at somepoint during the rebuild. For any of the GA TinBoaters, here they are: https://www.capitalcitymachine.com/welding.htm Take into consideration, I don't know how to judge their work other than my objectives which were to patch the two holes and attach the bow eye I made.
Here are the holes
Here is the fix
Patches on the inside of the boat which will be covered during mod.
New bow eye attached
Action Footage
Next is purchasing the ACM Panel for the floor
