TheMaestro said:And finally, my floor. First let me say that what I wanted was a lightweight, durable, nonslip floor, and I didnt want to feel the ribs on my feet through it. I also wanted to keep the floor as low as possible. To get a level floor, I would have had to raise the floor 4". That was not ideal, so a frame and as out. I was going to use a 3/4" rubber stall mat, which would have conformed to the curve of the boat and strong enough to hide the feel of the ribs. However, when I went to see the mat,it weighed 90lbs, and Id need 2, so thats like an extra persons weight in floor mats!
Well after much research and store visits, I came up with the soljtion. Very lightweight,sturdy, comfortable and easy to remove for cleaning and drying out the hull. I found a 5/8" closed cell commercial grade antifatigue mat designed to be non slip. Its like the consistency of memory foam, so not squishy like a sponge,but like its viscous slow squishy. Alone, it fits perfectly and is heavy enough that it wont move or blow away.Alone, when I step on it,it greatly reduces the feeling of the ribs, but that gave me an idea....
I bought 1/2" polystyrene insulation board (non absorbent) and I cut it and laid it in between the ribs. When I overlayed mat,it basically gave support enough to make the ribs not felt at all! And since its so easy to remove, any water that may be trapped after a day on the lake can be easily drained/cleaned afterwards. The foam is thin enough to concorm to the curve of the hull,yet it strong and doesnt get squished, especially with the mat on top.
The mat has a great look to it, complete with grooves and subtle yet effctive textured surface. I sprayed it wet andtried it with shoes and barefeet and sandals and its absolutely noslip.
View attachment 2
Hello, I sent you a PM as I would like to know where you bought that mat for your floors, very cool, they look great and thats the color I need
View attachment 1
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Sylvan 14 Seabreeze - Let the Mods Begin! ^COMPLETED^
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Your boat really came out nice, may I ask you how wide is the boat(beam). Thanks for giving me that idea about the floor, We are getting up there in age and have trouble with a heavy boat, trying to keep my 12ft. as light as possibly
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Ok, so Im beginning PHASE II of my mods... Im planning on adding lighting, bilge pump, transom trolling motor and extending a small area of the bow plate to mount nav lights and create some anchor storage. I have removed all my decking from last year as I need to re configure it to accomodate all my new add-ons. Im also going to change out my ABS rod holders as well as mount a new system for rod transoport.
But first, I wanted to deal with some structural issues. After 3-4 hours on the lake, there is a small amount of water between the ribs in certain areas. Not enough to be pumped out, as most of it can be dried up with a towel. I checked for loose rivets, filled with water,etc, but I suspect that its a rivet that gets 'loose' when underway and is pressured by the water. So I wanted to use gluvit to coat the inside, but that stuff is impossible to find here. I believe there's a labelling issue here in Canada, and none of the area boat dealers carry it. So, I decided to chance it and try the Rustoleum LeakSeal. I wont know how well it works until Im on the water, but I can report it was easy to apply, the spray was not gloopy and it didnt spatter. I chose the clear stuff, and you can see it drying in the pics:
The other repair Im doing is on a cracked rib that was there when I purchased the boat. Ironically, thats not where the water is coming in, and it looks like it cracked because the boat was either dropped or hit there. I got a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum pipe cut in half and it fits right on the rib perfectly. Im goint to rivet it into place when the leak seal is all dry.
And finally, here's the switch that Im going to use for my electrical. I has breakers built in, and I will use the appropriate wire and circuit breakers for the trolling motor and for the feed to this switch for the accessories. More on the electrical when I get to it..
But first, I wanted to deal with some structural issues. After 3-4 hours on the lake, there is a small amount of water between the ribs in certain areas. Not enough to be pumped out, as most of it can be dried up with a towel. I checked for loose rivets, filled with water,etc, but I suspect that its a rivet that gets 'loose' when underway and is pressured by the water. So I wanted to use gluvit to coat the inside, but that stuff is impossible to find here. I believe there's a labelling issue here in Canada, and none of the area boat dealers carry it. So, I decided to chance it and try the Rustoleum LeakSeal. I wont know how well it works until Im on the water, but I can report it was easy to apply, the spray was not gloopy and it didnt spatter. I chose the clear stuff, and you can see it drying in the pics:
The other repair Im doing is on a cracked rib that was there when I purchased the boat. Ironically, thats not where the water is coming in, and it looks like it cracked because the boat was either dropped or hit there. I got a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum pipe cut in half and it fits right on the rib perfectly. Im goint to rivet it into place when the leak seal is all dry.
And finally, here's the switch that Im going to use for my electrical. I has breakers built in, and I will use the appropriate wire and circuit breakers for the trolling motor and for the feed to this switch for the accessories. More on the electrical when I get to it..
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Today I managed to brace my cracked rib with the aluminum half pipe and some 3/16" rivets. It feels solid, and I rocked the boat and the crack stayed closed. I also added a mini transom -for my trolling motor- to match my existing diamond plate transom:
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Hey thanks!
The anchor weighs 8 lbs, and its foldable. It locks closed and it locks open. It digs into our area lakes very very well, and holds me (240lbs), my wife and my little girl in place solidly. We have soft bottom lakebeds, so i cant say how it would hold on rock except that it does need to 'grab' its grappling hooks to hold. It wont hold by its weight alone, but its not designed to.
The anchor weighs 8 lbs, and its foldable. It locks closed and it locks open. It digs into our area lakes very very well, and holds me (240lbs), my wife and my little girl in place solidly. We have soft bottom lakebeds, so i cant say how it would hold on rock except that it does need to 'grab' its grappling hooks to hold. It wont hold by its weight alone, but its not designed to.
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Yes, its from Canadian Tire.....
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Ironically, Ive had to remove mine to accomodate my new layout and wiring #-o
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Finally built my battery tray located in the bow. I used bluwood 3/4" ply and have the front half resting on a rib and the back half supported with hurricane ties riveted to the bench seat. Itsnreally solid and doesnt budge:
I just have to install the battery box strap:
Next I ran all my wiring, labelled and put in a split loom. The lights, horn, courtesy lights etc., all on one side, and 6 gauge for the trolling motor on the other. Heres my nest of wires to go to my switch panel to be located in the stern:
Ive noticed a few builds on here where people created an 'accessory rail' where they could mount items. I really like the idea, so I created my own rails to also create a channel to house my wiring runs between the seats. On one of the rails I'll install a 12v DC outlet as well as a generic mount for gps, cell phones, etc. Ive had to loose my pvc rod holders (as mentioned above), but I replaced them with some rockets. Here's the accessory rail(s) showing the channel, and then with the cover on:
Next up will be the stern switch box, connecting the wires, and re-doing the bow and stern decks with new hatch layouts.
I just have to install the battery box strap:
Next I ran all my wiring, labelled and put in a split loom. The lights, horn, courtesy lights etc., all on one side, and 6 gauge for the trolling motor on the other. Heres my nest of wires to go to my switch panel to be located in the stern:
Ive noticed a few builds on here where people created an 'accessory rail' where they could mount items. I really like the idea, so I created my own rails to also create a channel to house my wiring runs between the seats. On one of the rails I'll install a 12v DC outlet as well as a generic mount for gps, cell phones, etc. Ive had to loose my pvc rod holders (as mentioned above), but I replaced them with some rockets. Here's the accessory rail(s) showing the channel, and then with the cover on:
Next up will be the stern switch box, connecting the wires, and re-doing the bow and stern decks with new hatch layouts.
Gators5220
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Lookin sweet!
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Finished up the back starboard accessory bar/wiring channel today, with a second set of rocket holders:
Then it was onto mounting the red LED courtesy lights under the front top half of the bench seats. The LED strips came with mounting clips, but i couldnt reach under the seat bulkheads I made to install the clips. So I mounted the clips onto some 1/2" moulding, then used epoxy tape to mount the whole thing under the seats:
Then I tidied up all my wires with 1/2" and 1/4" split loom. I then moved onto my switch panel/box which I will be mounting on the stern. I saw a build here where someone used a weatherproof junction box mounted to the transom, and I liked it. Here's the box, with my switch panel:
Tomorrow, im crimping on connectors, soldering, and mounting the switch box...and maybe install the bilge.....
Then it was onto mounting the red LED courtesy lights under the front top half of the bench seats. The LED strips came with mounting clips, but i couldnt reach under the seat bulkheads I made to install the clips. So I mounted the clips onto some 1/2" moulding, then used epoxy tape to mount the whole thing under the seats:
Then I tidied up all my wires with 1/2" and 1/4" split loom. I then moved onto my switch panel/box which I will be mounting on the stern. I saw a build here where someone used a weatherproof junction box mounted to the transom, and I liked it. Here's the box, with my switch panel:
Tomorrow, im crimping on connectors, soldering, and mounting the switch box...and maybe install the bilge.....
Sgt. Stiglitz
Well-known member
That design/layout looks strangely familiar.............. :shock:
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Ok, so I finished routing all my wiring for the following:
Nav Lights
Horn
3 sets of LED (red) under the seat lights
12 V accessory outlet
Bilge Pump
Stern Light
Trolling Motor.
I routed all but the trolling motor wires to a main junction box from Lowes. I then mounted my swtich/breaker panel on it, and hid my bus bars inside, crimped all my wires, labelled all of them inside the box for future reference and then mounted my box on my transom, which is where its home will be:
Once I add my back deck Ill wire up the anchor/stern light. You can see I used split loom all the way through for a neater look and protection.
My next step was to tackle the trolling motor connections. I ran 4 gauge wire from the bow, where the battery will be, all the way to the stern. I wanted to use a connection between that and the trolling motor that was very robust both in the ability to handle the larger guage wire plus being able to plug/unplug the TM. I wont leave the TM on the boat, so the plug/unplug needs to be really good. I looked at what was available specifically for TM hookups, but they didnt really suit my need. So, in the end I used a 50amp stove type outlet, with a matching plug. Both can handle the heavy gauge wire directly, the connection is solid and very sturdy. I removed the ground plug as it was not needed, made the wide blade of the plug +, the narrow - . Luckily, the plug only fits stove outlets, so if some joker tries to plug it into a regular household outlet, its way too big...
Now I have to re-do my removed decking as all these gadgets require new access hatches. I also am going to make more room at the bow for storage. I know Ive harped on this quite often, but I have to show my bluewood that Im using. For those of you who havent read my rants about it, just do a search in the forum for bluewood (or did I spell it bluwood?).. In a nutshell, its a new non-reactive, non toxic wood treatment that is designed to reisists rot, mould, insects, its waterproof but lets the wood breathe, it doesnt leach, and most importantly, its specifically designed NOT to react with any metals or plastics or anything. I really believe once this becomes more widely carried (Lowes carries it here in Canada) it will be the de facto choice for the tin modder. Its only about $8 more a sheet than regular ply. You'll notice my new sheets of bluewood plywood, and you can see the label says the glue is also waterproof:
Now, here is my old deck from last year. This is after a good season of use, it definitely got wet, sat (covered) all winter outside with all sorts of up and down temperatures. You can see it hasnt rotted, mildewed, nor has it warped. Its just as it was when I first installed it:
Currently, its available as 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 ply, 2x4's, 2x6's, 2x2's. I used it as 2x2 for my framing and 1/2 for my decking. The cool thing is you can buy it already 'blued', or you can buy a can of the blue and do any wood yourself. Its not like thompsons water sealer, and its not pressure treated. Its a completely new system.... Sometimes I feel I should be their spokesperson!!! I guess I just havent see *anyone* else on tinboats use the stuff
Nav Lights
Horn
3 sets of LED (red) under the seat lights
12 V accessory outlet
Bilge Pump
Stern Light
Trolling Motor.
I routed all but the trolling motor wires to a main junction box from Lowes. I then mounted my swtich/breaker panel on it, and hid my bus bars inside, crimped all my wires, labelled all of them inside the box for future reference and then mounted my box on my transom, which is where its home will be:
Once I add my back deck Ill wire up the anchor/stern light. You can see I used split loom all the way through for a neater look and protection.
My next step was to tackle the trolling motor connections. I ran 4 gauge wire from the bow, where the battery will be, all the way to the stern. I wanted to use a connection between that and the trolling motor that was very robust both in the ability to handle the larger guage wire plus being able to plug/unplug the TM. I wont leave the TM on the boat, so the plug/unplug needs to be really good. I looked at what was available specifically for TM hookups, but they didnt really suit my need. So, in the end I used a 50amp stove type outlet, with a matching plug. Both can handle the heavy gauge wire directly, the connection is solid and very sturdy. I removed the ground plug as it was not needed, made the wide blade of the plug +, the narrow - . Luckily, the plug only fits stove outlets, so if some joker tries to plug it into a regular household outlet, its way too big...
Now I have to re-do my removed decking as all these gadgets require new access hatches. I also am going to make more room at the bow for storage. I know Ive harped on this quite often, but I have to show my bluewood that Im using. For those of you who havent read my rants about it, just do a search in the forum for bluewood (or did I spell it bluwood?).. In a nutshell, its a new non-reactive, non toxic wood treatment that is designed to reisists rot, mould, insects, its waterproof but lets the wood breathe, it doesnt leach, and most importantly, its specifically designed NOT to react with any metals or plastics or anything. I really believe once this becomes more widely carried (Lowes carries it here in Canada) it will be the de facto choice for the tin modder. Its only about $8 more a sheet than regular ply. You'll notice my new sheets of bluewood plywood, and you can see the label says the glue is also waterproof:
Now, here is my old deck from last year. This is after a good season of use, it definitely got wet, sat (covered) all winter outside with all sorts of up and down temperatures. You can see it hasnt rotted, mildewed, nor has it warped. Its just as it was when I first installed it:
Currently, its available as 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 ply, 2x4's, 2x6's, 2x2's. I used it as 2x2 for my framing and 1/2 for my decking. The cool thing is you can buy it already 'blued', or you can buy a can of the blue and do any wood yourself. Its not like thompsons water sealer, and its not pressure treated. Its a completely new system.... Sometimes I feel I should be their spokesperson!!! I guess I just havent see *anyone* else on tinboats use the stuff
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Finished wiring the master circuit breakers and the master battery switch today:
panFried
Well-known member
Nice job maestro! I appreciate the good descriptions and pics on wiring. Tin is looking good.
TheMaestro
Well-known member
Hello everyone, Ive been away from the forum for a few weeks as I have been enjoying fishing with my completed tin! Ive been meaning to post final pics, but when I was done (about a month ago) I was busy enjoying it. So here are the final pics and descriptions:
After all the wiring was done, I created two separate hatches in the stern, one for the gas tank and access to the TM plug:
And on the starboard stern side for storage and you can see a small cutout to access to my switches:
In between, I added drybag storage with a screw type hatch:
The next thing I did was mount rod storage holders for when Im trailering the boat to the lake. I had the rods strapped in last year, but while that was easy to do while standing beside the boat in my garage, putting the rods back in while in the boat was tedious. So what I used was Berkley rod storage holders like this:
I wanted them to be strong enough to actually hold the rods while trailering, but removable while on the water to increase seating area. So I came up the idea of using very strong rare-earth magnets that would secure the rod holders but that could be easily removed:
They are SO strong, i can lift the boat vertically holding one of the rod holders. But to remove, all i have to do is tilt it sideways and the magnet releases. Ive trailered the boat several times, and the holders dont move, keeping the rods safe.
On the water, once the rods have been removed, I simply tilt the rod holders, and I added some washers under my 'accessory rails' and the holders store there neatly out of the way! You can see it stored in this pic under the rail to the right.
When we are done for the day, I simply tilt them to remove from storage location and put them back on the seats and put the rods back in:
I located the battery and master cutoff switch/breakers in the bow. I wanted half the bow to be used for this, and the front half for storage. I also wanted complete access to the entire bow if I needed to make repairs, so I came up with a double hatch that can be totally lifted out for complete access. I actually stole the idea from the storage area of my RAV4 which has a similar setup. I can tell you that once in place, the weight of the whole thing keeps it very securely in place:
Battery hatch portion:
Very front Bow portion:
Completely removed:
The next thing I added to this mod was an anchor storage/nav light mount/horn mount: (the horn is inside the cubicle)
So here she is completed:
And here she is all covered ready for trailering to the lake!
Its been a great build from last year to now, and Im really enjoying just using it!
After all the wiring was done, I created two separate hatches in the stern, one for the gas tank and access to the TM plug:
And on the starboard stern side for storage and you can see a small cutout to access to my switches:
In between, I added drybag storage with a screw type hatch:
The next thing I did was mount rod storage holders for when Im trailering the boat to the lake. I had the rods strapped in last year, but while that was easy to do while standing beside the boat in my garage, putting the rods back in while in the boat was tedious. So what I used was Berkley rod storage holders like this:
I wanted them to be strong enough to actually hold the rods while trailering, but removable while on the water to increase seating area. So I came up the idea of using very strong rare-earth magnets that would secure the rod holders but that could be easily removed:
They are SO strong, i can lift the boat vertically holding one of the rod holders. But to remove, all i have to do is tilt it sideways and the magnet releases. Ive trailered the boat several times, and the holders dont move, keeping the rods safe.
On the water, once the rods have been removed, I simply tilt the rod holders, and I added some washers under my 'accessory rails' and the holders store there neatly out of the way! You can see it stored in this pic under the rail to the right.
When we are done for the day, I simply tilt them to remove from storage location and put them back on the seats and put the rods back in:
I located the battery and master cutoff switch/breakers in the bow. I wanted half the bow to be used for this, and the front half for storage. I also wanted complete access to the entire bow if I needed to make repairs, so I came up with a double hatch that can be totally lifted out for complete access. I actually stole the idea from the storage area of my RAV4 which has a similar setup. I can tell you that once in place, the weight of the whole thing keeps it very securely in place:
Battery hatch portion:
Very front Bow portion:
Completely removed:
The next thing I added to this mod was an anchor storage/nav light mount/horn mount: (the horn is inside the cubicle)
So here she is completed:
And here she is all covered ready for trailering to the lake!
Its been a great build from last year to now, and Im really enjoying just using it!
jasper60103
Well-known member
Congrats on completing a very nice build.
I like how you used magnets for mounting the rod storage.
I noticed your magnets have a threaded male stud.
Did you find them online?
Again, great build. =D>
I like how you used magnets for mounting the rod storage.
I noticed your magnets have a threaded male stud.
Did you find them online?
Again, great build. =D>
fishingmich
Well-known member
First off, this is one of the sweetest, cleanest builds on here. Nothing fancy but everything is extremely functional and that's the name of the game. I love to see that you get your kids involved in fishing too, that's awesome. Ok now, where'd you get those dry bags and screw on covers? Those are pretty sweet and I'm thinking of putting something like that in mine once I start it back up.
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