Trouble with my Weldbilt

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Took the boat to a local shop the other day. The owner wouldn't touch it because he had a lot of work already. He estimated $500-800 to repair it. I think the best thing to do is get it fixed and sell it. Anyone interested? Lol
 
Yours isn't the first I've seen with every single rib popped like that. I used to like them - the design, on paper, is superior to many others.

For example, the lateral stiffeners welded (well, not anymore) across the floor are flat on top, whereas many companies use a 1.5" tall hat section that follows the deadrise of the hull. Not only does this give a flat deck, it also make the middle of the stiffener twice as tall as the ends, putting more strength where the greater stress is. Also, the additional lengthwise strakes formed into the hull increase rigidity, without a huge weight gain. Some great design features. But then, the boats just fall apart due to poor welding (and I think they keep making their lateral ribs thinner), and with more of their recent hulls, I'm seeing things that were improperly cut, and then hammered into place. I did a deck extension on one, and found the back of the bow deck was C shaped, when looking down from the top....

The two places I see damage on yours are the disconnected lower floor ribs, and the transom knee brace.

The lower ribs simply need to be rewelded. The splitting of the weld shows how poor the weld was - aluminum welds tend to fail in the heat affected zone immediately on either side of the weld - not the weld itself. The fact that the weld itself let go suggests that the cross section of the weld wasn't even as thick as the base material, when they should have been roughly equal.

I'm going to outline a plan of correctly repairing it. If you are going to spend 500-800 to get it rewelded to sell it, you may also want to consider spending slightly more to make it right enough to keep it. Depends on if the decision is entirely dollars and cents, or if there is also some 'new boat itch' to contend with as well.

My initial thought is to simply get these properly rewelded. This is not a TIG job - you'll end up with quite a bit of distortion - it's really a task for pulsed MIG. I'd advise not leaving it with someone who plans to TIG weld that.

However, the more I look at your pictures, the more I'm concerned that the fitment is too far off to work with. I'm somewhat surprised that the ribs lifted up from the hull sheets as much as they did. With the weight of the boat on the trailer bunks, I'd really expect to see the gap closed up, so this suggests a good bit of internal tension that is pulling the sections apart. Not entirely surprising - lots of boats have such, but I think in this case it comes from the ribs not being correctly fitted.

Also, it's hard to see from the photos, but it looks like the rib flanges weren't sitting flat on the hull sheet - they were pulled down to meet the sheet to weld initially, is that right? If so, my suggestion would be to simply cut the bottom flange off the existing floor ribs, so you are left with the vertical leg of the rib. Then, shear some strips of .100 sheet to fit the vee of the boat on one side, straight on the other. You'll stand these up against the ribs. These will weld or rivet (ideally both) to the side of the rib, then MIG weld to the hull skin of the boat.

The transom knee brace doesn't scare me - that's an easy fix. Oddly, it's actually the opposite of my Weldbilt theory - that's decent welding, but bad design. That's not write home to mama TIG welding there, but it's certainly passable for a boat manufacturer. Basically, all the transom strength comes from the wood core, but the knee brace (and it's reasonably beefy - not in thickness, but is a rigid shape) is welded to the thin skin, and is pulling on that. They tried to remedy that with the two 1/4" bolts, however out on the unsupported flange, they don't do much good - the knee brace is only rigid in the middle. Also, following that logic, the downhand MIG weld down each side of the brace doesn't do a lot of good - it's pretty much relying on that 2.5" of TIG weld at the top.

Simple fix there is to remove the engine, and shear a strip of sheet or plate that goes down the top of the knee brace a little bit (few inches, then wraps over the top of the transom and welds there. Basically, instead of knee brace pulling just on a flat piece of sheet, you want it also pulling on the top, where it has two bends to make it a little more rigid, and where you can increase the weld area.

You haven't mentioned this yet, but if you can access the bottom of the transom wood, see if there is a big gap between it and the outer skin. On some of those boats, the wood transom core is not attached to the bottom of the transom at all. The force of the motor pulls out on the top of the transom, and pushes in on the bottom. With the wood not attached, it starts pulling forward, flexing the back transom sheet, instead of transferring the force to the bottom of the hull, as it should. A row of 6 bolts/nuts and fender washers across the bottom of the transom wood, pulling it back tight against the aluminum skin solves this issue.

I'll be glad to elaborate on some repair suggestions if you go that route.

Last time I did a repair on a less than one year old Weldbilt, the bill was in the $400 plus range (granted, we did a redesign, so he'd never have a problem again, instead of just welding the broken stuff back together), and Weldbilt offered to pick up $50 of that.
 
Thanks bassboy! I might end up taking the boat to you to have it fixed. I'm driving to Tennessee for thanksgiving, so I'll be going right through Atlanta. Are you up to the challenge?
 
MB, jmho, but at this point I think I'd give bassboy a call and seriously consider having him make your repairs. I don't know him at all, but it sure sounds like he knows how to make this right and if you keep after Weldbuilt, hopefully they'll be willing to defray some-or all of the expense- in the interest of good customer relations.
Good luck, Bill
 
man bro that weldbilt is 2 years old .. get a lawyer and make them replace the hull .... i mean its like being robbed when you get done this way, if nothing else to just make the point that they can't screw people over.
 
I don't think I have a legal leg to stand on though. There is only a one year warranty on the hull, which I didn't find out about until after this all happened.
 
Only a 1 year warrantee, that is not good either. that thing is unusable. I’d be darned if I would pay to repair that kind of failure. I don't think that reflects very well of Weldcraft at all if they aren't willing to make that right. Surely it can't be all that much trouble for them to take it back and re-weld it. That is ridiculous.
 
So if you were a reasonable distance from Backwoods Landing would you be happy with their handling of the situation? I ask because I am only 30 minutes from them and drive by every day to/from work and have been considering buying a boat from them in the spring. This thread is definitely not painting a good picture for Weldbilts weld quality nor short warranty, however, if the dealership will stand behind the boat longer I would still consider them.
 
I would say Backwoods has been the most helpful. Although I think Weldbilt has their hands tied, so they're limited on what they can do.
 
I found a guy locally who will do the work finally. Right now my plans are to contact Weldbilt again via Facebook. I feel that whoever is in control of their page will be more likely to work with me in the interest of good customer service. My options are to privately message them, and explain the issue, or totally blast them by posting pics and a description of the problem directly to their page. I'm thinking I'll go with the first option, but I'm not sure how to word my message.
 
richg99 said:
You catch more flies with honey...etc. etc.

I'd go the first route.

I agree 100%

No one is disagreeing that the welding was not stellar on this boat. Weldbuilt did step up and agree to fix the problems as I understand it. The issue it seems is getting the boat from point A to point B and back to point A. Who should incur the costs? I'm not weighing in on that one. :D

At a minimum, 40,000 people(up to over 100k UNIQUE visitors) come to this website every month to browse. That is all I am saying.
 
Update:

Friday I'm driving up to Mooresville to the dealer which I bought the boat from. Engine has been removed, and all rigging stripped. The dealer says it will be fixed RIGHT, but its up to the factory to decide whether or not they will charge me.

When I get the boat back, I'm planning on doing a complete makeover. I'll be replacing the flemsy diamond plate floor with a thicker .125 floor. The entire boat will be repainted. The factory Weldbilt paint sucks. I'm also thinking of getting rid of the G3 outfitter console, and going with a small fiberglass console. The G3 console is just too wide for my floor plan.

Anyway, I'll start a new thread when I get to that point. And once it's all done, the boat will be up for sale.
 
Just my opinion - when the Factory is finished I would spend extra effort and time to flame the Internet (Facebook, Boat Forums, etc.) with a ton of pics and full explanations as to what a crappy boat they built, and their refusal (in my mind their solution is a refusal) to make it right. I'm serious.

A little crack here and there I could understand but that boat was about to literally fall apart right under your feet.

Good luck my friend, and God Bless you for your patience. You have far more than I . . .

CMOS
 
mbweimar said:
When I get the boat back, I'm planning on doing a complete makeover. I'll be replacing the flemsy diamond plate floor with a thicker .125 floor. The entire boat will be repainted. The factory Weldbilt paint sucks. I'm also thinking of getting rid of the G3 outfitter console, and going with a small fiberglass console. The G3 console is just too wide for my floor plan.

Anyway, I'll start a new thread when I get to that point. And once it's all done, the boat will be up for sale.

If you are planning on selling it, I would not spend too much time or money on it myself unless you think you could recoup the cost of "upgrading" it in your sell. You don't want to spend a thousand and only reap five hundred.
 
CMOS said:
Just my opinion - when the Factory is finished I would spend extra effort and time to flame the Internet (Facebook, Boat Forums, etc.) with a ton of pics and full explanations as to what a crappy boat they built, and their refusal (in my mind their solution is a refusal) to make it right. I'm serious.

A little crack here and there I could understand but that boat was about to literally fall apart right under your feet.

Good luck my friend, and God Bless you for your patience. You have far more than I . . .

CMOS


Dunno, everyone gets to do what they wish, but if the boat company does repair it, beyond warranty, then I'd think they did what they could, within strict company guidelines.

Bad-mouthing them after they did the repair hurts the next guy with a problem.

This thread is fairly clear about the welding issues, and will come up on a web search.

My two cents. :?
 

Latest posts

Top