YJs 1236 Semi V Mod

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Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it.
For some time now I been thinking like a baby blue for the bottom paint but just not real sure how that's going to look against the red.
Today I finished getting the floor cut in and ready to seal. It will be screwed down to the aluminum ladder running down the middle of the boat for support and the ladder is screwed down to the ribs with SS screws with the 1/2" pink foam under that.
 

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Yes, I can see the deeper thought on the baby blue bottom. If you can get a small amount of the paint you may be well served to do a test patch and see how the contrast looks. Also, if you do go with the blue you may consider a transition line between the two colors.

Personally I would go with white on the bottom. White pretty much goes with anything; but I would choose white mostly because I am cheap and unimaginative. :)
 
Really love the way your project is coming along! Paint looks great so far, and I can't wait to see how the bottom turns out! Not that anyone cares, but I think it would look really sharp with a thin line between colors too. Easy for me to say... no extra work on my part. :D
 
Thanks guys.. At first I was considering painting the splash guard Black, then later dismissed that idea. But with your mention of White I'm revisiting the idea. Also rethinking on a White Bottom. Wish I had a decent photo editor on this new computer so I could try some different color schemes on one of the photos. On my old puter I used PS CS3 and it would have been a piece of cake to make those changes. BTW, let it be known that I absolutely HATE Windows 8.1. Had Win 7 on my old one.
Thanks for the input guys. Ya got me rethinking a few things..
Also today I managed to get my Bow and Aft Deck Tops cut out. Tomorrow, I'll cut the fascia for both and start working on some angle iron (aluminum) for some more support on the sides and back of the decks.
Starting to come together nicely.
 

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A bit of an update here..
Been working on the decks and got the hatches cut out. 1 (for the battery) under the bow deck and 3 on the aft deck. 1 Long one at the very back for the bilge area and 2 smaller ones at the front of the deck for storage.
Yesterday I picked up all the paint needed to finish the inside and outside.
Today I picked up the new battery, manufacture date of Feb 2015, a group 27 Exide from Tractor Supply, $40 less that the same battery at the local marine dealer. Also picked up 1/8" Aluminum flat bar for lining the under edges of the hatches and the piano hinges for putting on the hatch doors.
I'm put Aluminum angle across the back to rest the deck on and will screw it down into the angle to keep the deck in place and will have 'L' brackets on the floor up the inside of the front wall to hold it all stationary there.
Tomorrow I've got my work cut out for me :)
I have a couple of pics from a couple days ago but didn't get any today so will get some tomorrow after getting some of the work done..
 

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Looking good, pretty soon you'll be fishing. That's a pretty cool idea using an old aluminum ladder for your floor support.
 
Thank you... it seems to be working pretty good. The ladder supports down the middle and the edge of the boat supports the edges of the floor. I've gotten in it and walked around but the real test will be when I put it in the water and try it out. LOL. Been thinking of sneaking it over to a small local lake and put her in just to see how the water displacement is with all the extra wood weight. That kind of worries me a bit. Especially after putting the battery in today. Believe I'm gonna need a bigger motor than a 4.5 HP though. LOL Been trying to find a 9.9 HP that I could afford.
 
YJ,
I just found your thread. I really like your restoration! In particular, I like the ladder idea- very intelligent use of a light, yet strong material.

I had a boat with a white bottom. Hated that it always got stained up. Last one I had, I painted it black, and that was easy to deal with.

But if you aren't in the red-clay mud stained waters like we are, white may work out just fine. It will certainly look good!

Keep up the good work. I really like the fact that you take it out, even while working on it. Boats are made to be USED, so I commend you for doing just that!

-TH
 
thill said:
YJ,
I just found your thread. I really like your restoration! In particular, I like the ladder idea- very intelligent use of a light, yet strong material.

I had a boat with a white bottom. Hated that it always got stained up. Last one I had, I painted it black, and that was easy to deal with.

But if you aren't in the red-clay mud stained waters like we are, white may work out just fine. It will certainly look good!

Keep up the good work. I really like the fact that you take it out, even while working on it. Boats are made to be USED, so I commend you for doing just that!

-TH
Hey thill.. thank you so much for the compliments.
I have to admit that Yes I am in a lot of red clay and mud stained waters and hadn't even thought about that when I decided on the white bottom paint. And to add insult to injury, I've already bought all the paint to finish it all up with. :(
Guess I could use it as a first coats. I'm going to be sticking to the smaller lakes and ponds with this boat from now on. It don't work out to good on rivers like the Chattahoochee. hehehe. Last time on that one I swamped the boat.
Today, I managed to get all the hatch doors put on. Next up, running some electrical wiring through the conduit that will be running under the floor and figure out how I'm going to do the passenger fishing chair box (aka Battery cover).
 
onthewater102 said:
12' is awefully small to be filling with all that wood weight.
Yes I know and considering taking out the front deck. The main thing I wanted in this boat was the flat floor, But, for the most part this thing is primarily a learning tool in preparation for a 16' flat bottom Jon. Soon as the trailer is legal, I'm going to take it over to a small, local lake to check the water displacement on it with the battery (group 27) in the middle of the boat.
I have to admit, this has, thus far, been a lot of fun building for me also. And that is thanks to everyone on this site for the help and ideas I've gone through, LOL and the many changes I've made in the process.
Right now, both decks are relatively small and kept LOW. The front one is right at about 3 ft long and was originally intended to have the battery under but after making a mock up battery out of Styrofoam I found that the deck would have to be way to high so I opted to keep the deck low and just keep the anchor in the hatch. The aft deck is 4 ft with a bilge hatch and to small storage hatches. Both decks are currently supported by the bench seats and a bit of aluminum angle iron. The floor is supported by an aluminum ladder down the center and the curved sides of the hull. There will also be aluminum braces from the sides to the floor where the center bench used to be.

Thanks, onthewater102, for your thoughts and input. And trust me, I have tried to keep the boat size in mind during all of this.
 
You're in basically the same boat - no pun intended - as I am with my 1436 flat bottom, but I started mine build knowing I needed to keep weight to a minimum and it still doesn't have enough freeboard to go out on busy lakes on the weekend. I can't imagine being on a big river with it if there are tugs and major vessels moving by along with the std. contingent of yuppie ***-hats in power boats coming way too close.

Being a v-hull your hull bows out a bit along the sides as well as lower down the sides to displace more than a 12' jon would, so we're probably working with roughly the same displacement/buoyancy - I think my boat is rated for 400lbs, but if I remember my 12' v before it was rated for 390 - not a lot of room for toys and the like, especially if you have 75lbs of lumber in there.

Future reference 1/2" plywood weighs ~1.5lbs / sq ft, .10" Aluminum ~1.4lbs / sq ft, while .09" FRP ~.5lbs / sq ft, but it requires you back it with foam, which between the ribs needs to be 1" thick so it adds another ~.10lbs per sq/ft. (.6 total vs ~1.5 for wood or alum.) but is the clear winner in weight, which with our tiny tinies seems to be the most limiting factor of all.

God knows my batteries and TM alone put the boat at capacity with me in it, nevermind the rest of my gear. Out of curiosity - you said you swamped - was it a wake that did you in or swells and did the water come over the front or rear? I've seen some guys on here with 6" PVC pipes bolted to the side to add buoyancy in rough water...might be a way to salvage your current rig. Anything smaller than 6" is a waste - by my math adding 5' of PVC on both sides of the boat will only net you ~130lbs of buoyancy less the weight of the PVC and hardware...realistically you probably only have room for 6' or 7'...more than enough to make up for the weight of everything you added to the boat.
 
I've considered adding 5' of 6" pvc on each side. It swamped when my back started hurting from sitting on the benches and I started stretching side to side and stretched to far to one side and the boat capsized with me and my little taco dog. I was thinking of the pvc tubes for more stability than anything else. Put them on in such a way I could raise them for travel and lower for fishing time and be able to just pull them off for
I've added pink foam under the ladder.
Going by the CG formula it rated for something like 520 lbs and a max of 10 HP motor but I've only got a 4.5 HP for it right now. Not gonna win any races, that's for sure, but if it will get me to the fishing spots, I'll be happy with that, for now..
This FRP that you were talking about, just what is that? I'm not familiar with it.
 
Fiber Reinforced Paneling - its fiberglass panels used in bathrooms, showers etc. available from home depot or lowes in 4x8 sheets.

It's just a fiberglass sheet - costs about $32/sheet @ the big box stores. It has a textured finished side that has a gell coat applied to it, but the other side is just straight fiberglass. You can scuff it up a bit with some sandpaper and apply bondo or other fiberglass directly to it. So once i fit it as nicely as I could to all the curved edges I just went over it along the edge with some more fiberglass to fill in and clean everything up.

It's not as durable as wood or sheet aluminum - but it certainly holds up to normal uses just fine (walking loading gear etc.) The one time I damaged it I dropped my 80# thrust 24 trolling motor (~75lbs) on it trying to align it on it's quick release mount. There is a section where the pin that locks the quick release mount stuck out and of course the whole thing landed with that pin pointed down & it punched right through the FRP - but it would have dented aluminum pretty badly too with that much weight on such a small steel pin. It was an easy fix though...just glassed over it and by morning it was ready to go.
 
WOW. Guess I'm going to have to go to HD tomorrow and go check this stuff out, But would have to wait till payday to actually get any. Would take me approx. 2 1/2 sheets to replace all the wood. Use the wood versions as the templates they should just slip right in. Thanks so much for tipping me off on this stuff.
 
Here's an update to my progress so far. Pics are below.
Got the deck hatch doors installed using piano hinges and 1/8" thick aluminum 1 1/2" bars for the supports.
Then took out all the wood and got the gunwales taped off and ready to paint the inside.
Then today I got two coats of paint in. Now that I've got the paint in, I'm not all that sure I like the color. :roll: Guess I better get used to it though. Maybe it will look better once I have the carpet in. Before I put the floor and decks back in though, I'm going to add another coat then a couple coats of crystal clear Rust-Oleum. Then I'll pull the boat off the trailer and flip it over and paint the bottom.
I'm also going to take a trip to Home Depot tomorrow and check out the FRP in consideration of changing from the wood to that. We shall see what happens.
 

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Love your build and admire your patience. Waiting for the paycheck to arrive, it gives a man too much time to think. DANGEROUS!!!
Keep in mind if you use the FRP, you will need a support system underneath it. You will probably need to keep your plywood. FRP is thin "plastic" type stuff that is used for wet applications like shower walls. When used for shower walls it is attached to sheetrock using contact cement. IMO you will not lose any weight.
 
FRP really only works with foam right behind it. Backing it with plywood will work, but is pointless as it defeats the purpose (weight savings) in using FRP in the first place.

I would add a considerable amount of foam to your floor if swamping is an issue. Help keep the motors above water if you swamp.
 
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