Finally getting a new (to me) tin boat, a 1436

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That hull looks good and straight. By the way I live in concord nc. Looking forward to your progress. I am modding a tin boat also.
 
HEY CANT WAIT TO SEE WHAT YOU GOT ON YOUR MIND ? I HAVE A 1995 LOWE 1436L THAT I WANT TO MOD BUT STILL LOOKING FOR I DEALS =D> GOOD LUCK
 
Thanks guys. masterofillusion, let me know if you want to go fish some time, I'm not opposed to making a drive.

Well I got some painting done tonight- after a base coat last night, now it has 2 coats. It's been raining, and there's a chance of rain all week, so we moved the motorcycles out of the garage and moved the boat in. It will probably need another light coat tomorrow, I'll have to see. I think it is turning out really well so far. If I can pull myself away from the Packers/Vikings game, I may go tinker on the trailer some more.
 

Attachments

  • paint.jpg
    paint.jpg
    162.2 KB · Views: 1,559
Hydrilla that sounds good to me. I am always ready to fish. The boat looks nice, good job. =D> By the way are you an auto painter by trade?
 
Thanks again guys. masterofillusion- nah, I'm a computer guy that wishes I was something more interesting :roll: But hey it pays the bills I guess.
 
I spent every night this week plus all day today de-rusting my trailer, and getting it ready to paint. I got a good coat of primer on it tonight, and will paint it next Saturday. I used the Rustoleum rust converter stuff as primer, and I think it will turn out good. I'm going to use regular Rustoleum in a rattle can for paint, gloss black as the color. Here's me taking a McBreak this afternoon, courtesy of my wife, as well as a pic of the trailer just after a coat of primer.
 

Attachments

  • primer2.jpg
    primer2.jpg
    209 KB · Views: 1,923
  • mc_break.jpg
    mc_break.jpg
    388.5 KB · Views: 1,923
i'm in nc also. Sanford, northeast of rockingham. !viva! el ROCK. Nice job on your build. i'm fishing mine in cape fear mostly. want to take it out on shearan harris. That is the crappie central. lights at night, and a big cooler.
 
Man, I'm jealous. I've only been to Harris once, in fact it was out of this jon boat using TM only. I love grass fishing (guess you can tell by my name), what a great lake. I will have to get down there to try to catch some of those slab crappie.
 
This weekend is going to be a big one for my build. My birthday is next week, so I'm treating myself :) I plan to get as far as I can with the trailer, and if I have time, start on the inside of the boat, including painting what areas I plan on painting (don't see a point in painting the whole inside if I'm going to have a lot of it covered), building the frame, deck and floor, and maybe even working on the carpet. I know I probably won't get through all of that but I will probably buy most of the materials.

(By the way, if you are planning on buying outdoor carpet from Lowe's or Home Depot, I'd do it now. Lowe's told me that once they sell what they have, they won't be getting anymore until Spring.)

I'm not really sure how much carpet I need for my 1436. I am going to carpet the front deck (middle bench to bow), the middle floor (adding wood floor to bottom of the boat), and possibly the top of the rear bench, in case my passenger wants to cast from up there. I may have 1 or 2 small compartments in the front, but I'm not sure. I'm going to use the same carpet for my bunks, which will most likely be a pair of ~9' 2x4s.

I am going to use pop rivets for the deck framing. I remember a post about 2 different sizes of aluminum rivets, I'll have to go re-read that and see what I can come up with. Also I remember reading something about using stainless bolts/nuts to attach the frame to the boat, again I'll have to re-read the archived posts. Setting up the layout of the framing it is an intimidating task to me, being honest. I've studied all the different methods people have used, and I'm still not clear how I'm going to do it. I need to keep costs down, but I want a strong structure that will work well with a 1/2" plywood deck.
 
Well, so much for my build weekend, it's not gonna happen. I got a call tonight from a buddy wanting me to go fish a 2 day tournament on Kerr Lake this Saturday and Sunday, it's a tough job but you should help a buddy out if he needs it :wink: Should be a fun time to fish out of a big glass boat again, and on one of my favorite lakes, too. Oh well, the project will have to wait.
 
congrats on new boat. i have a1436 that i just got done modifying.i built front and back decks.that gave me lots of storage,and keeps my stuff hidin from sticky fingers.it is very stable.me and my girlfriend both stood on the same side and it barely tilted. i will post pics soon as i get it painted.
 
im no trying to knock on yall, but i received a 1436 from my grandfather after he passed away and i just dont incredibly like it, i will never get rid of it considering the sentimental value, but i painted, floored carpeted it, and put storage under the seats (this is very handy). i am a college student so my budget is very small, but as soon as i join the workforce (3-4 years, wish it was sooner) i will definately purchase a wider boat. with just me it is fine but with two people it is like walking in quicksand, every step has to be accounted for. but i can get places many cant get so it has it plusses and minuses. it is a very thin metal though so this may make a differince
 
Ahh the sacrifices we make. Giving up working on the boat to fish :mrgreen: . I remember reading to post about the rivet sizes. Think they said 3/16" for anything structural, and 1/8" for decking and such. Again, I'm just going off memory. Thanks for the tip on buying the carpet now. Home depot has what I'm lookin' for, so I guess I'll have to make a trip over shortly.
 
I'm back after a sidetrack to the trailer forum for help with resolving my hub/axle issue. Turns out my axle has very short, non-standard spindles that dont come close to being able to fit standard hubs. After a lot of research, I bit the bullet and bought a new axle. I went with a galvanized axle from Northern Tool. It is a little longer than my old one, so that creates a fender issue, but other than that it is going to work out well. I used the Reliable brand hubs that Northern Tool sells for about $30, and I recommend them as a good value for the money. If you get these, go ahead and plan on getting some Bearing Buddies, because the cheap tin dust caps are very difficult to get on. I put Bearing Buddies on tonight and they go on really easy and they look really sharp. I've used them on other boats and know they work great.

So I have 2 remaining issues to work through with the trailer, before I continue with the boat. I think with the fenders I'll just cut off the old ones, and get someone to weld on some wider ones, like these- https://www.northerntool.com/webapp...omer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Category Page I measured, and 8 1/2" wide fenders like this will clear the outside of my tires, even with the longer axles. Dang it, I wish I knew how to weld.

The other issue is the trailer bunks, like I've mentioned a few times. I am thinking about U-bolts and some sort of L brackets on the sides of my 2x4s, but after searching through Lowe's and Home Depot, I haven't found anything that looks like it would work well. I am now considering ordering a set of brackets that are made specifically for trailer bunks. That in itself will require some research, as there seems to be a number of different types.

Here is a pic of how the trailer looks now, except that the pic doesn't show the Bearing Buddies.
 

Attachments

  • new_axle2.jpg
    new_axle2.jpg
    172.4 KB · Views: 1,929
It's been slow going lately, but I got the new fenders welded on today. I'm going to try to finish the trailer this weekend.
 

Attachments

  • fenders.jpg
    fenders.jpg
    55.3 KB · Views: 1,821
Looks good. I'd be interested to see how you attach the bunks. Gotta do that myself...
 
Got the bunk boards measured/mocked up and attached, now they are back off and I'm getting ready to seal them with Thompsons and Liquid Nails on the ends. I tried to overengineer this part of things, because of not wanting to drill holes in the tube cross pieces in the center and rear, but the cost/time involved in doing brackets or something wasn't worth it. I ended up using wood to metal self tapping outdoor screws, and they work great. The center and rear cross pieces are the same height, but the front C channel piece of the trailer is higher, so when the boards are resting on the front and rear, they aren't touching in the center. This was easily solved by putting a 1x4 under the bunks in the center, screwing them into the trailer, and screwing the bunk boards into the 1x4. KISS applies here I guess.

Here's a pic. They look close together, but they are just inside the outside strakes on my 1436, which from what I read is where you want them.
 

Attachments

  • bunks_drilled.jpg
    bunks_drilled.jpg
    178.9 KB · Views: 1,808
What kinda primer and paint did you use. I am fixing to re do an old boat, and I am trying to decide on what kind of paint and primer to use.

Thanks

Chris
 
I just used Rustoleum self-etching primer on the boat, and Rustoleum rust converter for the trailer. For trailer paint I'm just going to use regular Rustoleum spray bombs. For the outisde of the boat, regular Rustoleum brushed on.

Tonight I got the rest of the trailer primered, and I got the bunk boards coated with Thompson's. Tomorrow I'll treat the ends of the boards with Liquid Nails, and wait for everything to dry. Can't wait to finish this trailer so I can get back to working on the boat.
 

Attachments

  • fenders_axle_primer.jpg
    fenders_axle_primer.jpg
    267.3 KB · Views: 1,797
Top