Finally getting a new (to me) tin boat, a 1436

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It looks great.
Thanks for the tip on Rustoleum rust converter. I think I may use it on my trailer next summer.
About how may cans did it take to cover?

jasper
 
Thanks. I think it took 3-4 cans. Yeah if you have any rust at all, that stuff is what you want to use. You just gotta make sure the rust scale or any lose stuff is gone. The cup stype wire wheel on my grinder has been the best tool I've found for doing this. It's aggressive, but I think it would be difficult to do any damage.

jasper60103 said:
It looks great.
Thanks for the tip on Rustoleum rust converter. I think I may use it on my trailer next summer.
About how may cans did it take to cover?

jasper
 
Great, this is good info. I think I need to pick up some tools then. I don't even own a grinder. Is this the type attachment you're referring to? If so what size did you use or recommend? Thanks.

https://www.coastaltool.com/a/milwaukee/grinder_45.htm

edit: You think a grinder attachment for a power drill will get the job done?

Hydrilla said:
Thanks. I think it took 3-4 cans. Yeah if you have any rust at all, that stuff is what you want to use. You just gotta make sure the rust scale or any lose stuff is gone. The cup stype wire wheel on my grinder has been the best tool I've found for doing this. It's aggressive, but I think it would be difficult to do any damage.

jasper60103 said:
It looks great.
Thanks for the tip on Rustoleum rust converter. I think I may use it on my trailer next summer.
About how may cans did it take to cover?

jasper
 
That's exactly what I was talking about, especially the first 2 on the page. I think the ones that go with a drill would be just fine. I have a less aggressive one for my drill, and it worked, although I felt like the torque was more manageable with my grinder. Maybe I wasn't using the drill right. If you get a grinder, I think the 5" size is the most useful, IMHO. Also I don't think it pays for a hobbyist to spend a bunch of money on a grinder. The cheapies at Harbor Freight or even Lowes or Home Depot are just fine for most stuff.
 
yea, I can imagine how a drill w/grinder may want to run away from you.
I have some surface rust, but I don't think it should be too bad.
Then again, it may be worth buying a grinder if it will make the job
go easier and quicker.
Thanks again for the info.

Hydrilla said:
That's exactly what I was talking about, especially the first 2 on the page. I think the ones that go with a drill would be just fine. I have a less aggressive one for my drill, and it worked, although I felt like the torque was more manageable with my grinder. Maybe I wasn't using the drill right. If you get a grinder, I think the 5" size is the most useful, IMHO. Also I don't think it pays for a hobbyist to spend a bunch of money on a grinder. The cheapies at Harbor Freight or even Lowes or Home Depot are just fine for most stuff.
 
That trailer is looking great. I think that you will be very happy with the route you took. Its hard to look at options when you have to double and triple the $ you planned to spend on fixing one part. But when its done and you look back you know you made the right choice by going with quality and proper parts instead of trying to hack something together. I know I always do!
 
'Preciate it Dan.

Here's a pic of the trailer painted, I will probably add a 2nd coat tonight, as well as carpet the bunks now that the Liquid Nails is dry on the ends.
 

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I carpeted my bunks tonight, they turned out great. I made a mistake and carpeted one of them upside down, however- this means the holes I pre-drilled will no longer line up. I think this will be more of a pain in the rear than anything. Since I cut the boards a little long, I can just move them both closer to the front by about an inch, and re-drill the holes in the bunks. If anyone has any tips on lining up the holes in the trailer with where I need to drill in the bunks, let me know.
 

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Hydrilla said:
That's exactly what I was talking about, especially the first 2 on the page. I think the ones that go with a drill would be just fine. I have a less aggressive one for my drill, and it worked, although I felt like the torque was more manageable with my grinder. Maybe I wasn't using the drill right. If you get a grinder, I think the 5" size is the most useful, IMHO. Also I don't think it pays for a hobbyist to spend a bunch of money on a grinder. The cheapies at Harbor Freight or even Lowes or Home Depot are just fine for most stuff.


If you use a cup brush on a drill it will do one of three things.

First if it is a cordless you will drain the battery down extremely quickly and will be waiting on it all day long.

If you use a 1/4" light duty drill you will have much better luck but if you use it none stop for a long period of time and work that cup brush hard you will produce a nice electrical fire smell followed by white smoke. I did the same thing using a harbor freight angle grinder taking rust off a '77 powerwagon too so they are not that good of quality either.

If you use a 1/2" heavy duty or impact drill you can work it all day long and it will still have more to give out.

Now, if you go to Home Depot or Lowes and start pricing out Hitachi, or Dewalt or Milwaukee, Makita, etc. Then with those prices in mind you go over to one of the larger PawnAmerica's you will have your choice of Dewalt, Milwaukee, and Porter Cable drills, grinders, sawzalls. Basically if it has a cord and is used in some sort of construction you can find 20 of them for 1/4 of the price of new.

The battery powered tools are equally cheap. I prefer cords on heavy use items though. I am in my garage, do I need it to be cordless? Drill/screw driver yeah its great for light duty but if it needs to drill something big a cord is better. Something for cutting, grinding, breaking, destroying, exploding? Nope, I would rather have the power over the mobility.
 
Hydrilla said:
I accomplished a couple of things this weekend. First, after 2 full days of fishing out of the boat, with 2 different buddies instead of just me and my dog, I made the decision about what kind of floor/deck I want to do with this boat. Yesterday the guy that went with me had a real hard time while standing. He lost his balance at least 20-30 times, and actually fell flat on his back 2 or 3 times. I only slightly lost my balance a couple of times, and only as a result of the front of the boat pitching around from my friend dancing the huck-a-buck. Today was a different story. Similar body of water, similar waves/wakes, etc but the guy that went with me today didn't lose his balance once, and neither did I. We stood the entire day, very often fishing while standing on top of the benches. Based on this, I'm going forward with my plans to deck the boat. I'm only going the height of the benches, not all the way to the top. I know it can still be tippy but I think it will be fine.

Second, I brought some stripper home (paint stripper, keep it out the gutter), took the boat off the trailer and flipped it over, and started working on removing some paint. I tried the saran wrap trick with limited success. I haven't had time to scrape it all but it looks like the stripper is going to remove around 75% of the paint. I found a spot of JB Weld on the bottom of the boat that isn't on a rivet, so it has to be a hole repair- I'll have to add that to the list of things to fix correctly.

Also, and here's something you guys can help with, it looks like the splashwell has a badly dented area that looks to be caused by a battery bouncing around. When you look at the boat from the bottom, it's obviously bent out in that area. Should I worry about this if it's not leaking? What would be the fix? I'm attaching a pic of the dented area, and of the side of my boat covered in saran wrap.


I just want to say thanks. That plastic wrap idea was the best thing i have ever tried. it worked on my trailer too.
 
Hydrilla said:
I'm back after a sidetrack to the trailer forum for help with resolving my hub/axle issue. Turns out my axle has very short, non-standard spindles that dont come close to being able to fit standard hubs. After a lot of research, I bit the bullet and bought a new axle. I went with a galvanized axle from Northern Tool. It is a little longer than my old one, so that creates a fender issue, but other than that it is going to work out well. I used the Reliable brand hubs that Northern Tool sells for about $30, and I recommend them as a good value for the money. If you get these, go ahead and plan on getting some Bearing Buddies, because the cheap tin dust caps are very difficult to get on. I put Bearing Buddies on tonight and they go on really easy and they look really sharp. I've used them on other boats and know they work great.

So I have 2 remaining issues to work through with the trailer, before I continue with the boat. I think with the fenders I'll just cut off the old ones, and get someone to weld on some wider ones, like these- https://www.northerntool.com/webapp...omer driven-_-Recently Viewed-_-Category Page I measured, and 8 1/2" wide fenders like this will clear the outside of my tires, even with the longer axles. Dang it, I wish I knew how to weld.

The other issue is the trailer bunks, like I've mentioned a few times. I am thinking about U-bolts and some sort of L brackets on the sides of my 2x4s, but after searching through Lowe's and Home Depot, I haven't found anything that looks like it would work well. I am now considering ordering a set of brackets that are made specifically for trailer bunks. That in itself will require some research, as there seems to be a number of different types.

Here is a pic of how the trailer looks now, except that the pic doesn't show the Bearing Buddies.

I ran into the same problem with my spindles. only thing is only one was too short. I bought two new packed humbs before i noticed it. I just unpacked one of the hubs and repacked one of the old ones. the bad thing is that the rear seal is not flush with the back of the hub. i assume it will last for now but i think after reading your post i will try and replace my axel before summer starts.
 
Hydrilla said:
'Preciate it Dan.

Here's a pic of the trailer painted, I will probably add a 2nd coat tonight, as well as carpet the bunks now that the Liquid Nails is dry on the ends.

First time I've heard of using Liquid Nails on the ends....Are you using it as a sealant?
 
Nick, I'm glad the plastic wrap idea helped, I got the idea from someone else here. It's cool how these tips get passed on from person to person, regardless of who first thought of it. Glad you were able to make your axle work, but as someone else pointed out to me- the peace of mind of being able to go almost anywhere and buy parts in an urgent situation was worth it to me to just buy a new axle and hubs.

Brine, yep- I used it as a sealant on the ends of the boards. As usual, I also got this idea from someone else here on the forum. Made good sense to me, and the stuff is cheap and easy to work with.
 
awesome. Think I'll try the rustolium primer too. Looks good so far - what color is she gonna be?
 
I got the bunks attached, the wheels back on, and the tongue jack attached before I had to call it quits last night. Tonight I hope to get the boat back rightside up and on the trailer, and finish with the trailer setup.

I am mainly posting because I got a callback on a quote request for angle aluminum from Somers Sheet Metal Inc in Greensboro NC. As you guys know, angle aluminum at Lowes or Home Depot is not cheap. If I remember right, 1" x 1" x 1/8" x 6' long was somewhere around $18-19. That would add up reeeally quick. These guys quoted me on 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 1/8" x 20' for $40, and for whatever reason right now, 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 3/16" x 20' they can sell me for $35. That's a serious difference. If you live in central NC, give these guys a call. If you live elsewhere and are thinking about Lowes or Home Depot, I'd say it would be worth your time to spend a while on Google to see what's around your area.
 
I got the boat on the trailer, and I am very happy with how things turned out. The boat sits very level on the trailer as you can see, and the bunks fit just inside the most outside strakes, locking the boat in as you guide it on. I spent the rest of the evening working on preparing the inside of the boat for paint. I'm not going to paint the whole inside, just places not covered by deck/floor.
 

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Thanks man, I'm pretty happy with it. Yep, the inside is gonna be the same color. Would've primered the inside last night but I realized I didn't have any. Dang it :)

CRAPPIE_SLAYER said:
The whole rig is looking better all the time. Like the tan color that you picked out. Are the painted inside portions gonna be the same color?
 

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