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Project: Shoebox - 1764 Fisher FINISHED!!
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Shoedawg
Well-known member
amk said:
Shoots real good too. It doesn't look like it from the picture, due to the harsh sun, but this stuff is dead flat and looks even better in person. The paint seems to be real durable. If you want a long lasting finish, I would do multiple light coats. Its more work, and requires more time, but you wont have to paint your boat again for a loooong while.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Wow its been 3 months since I've posted an update. Not much to report, but I did get my back deck and console base painted early in October, but kind of stopped due to hunting season and the cold.
See I have a good excuse. Goose hunting last week.
Since I am in the process of painting, and the paint requires at least 40 degrees to be able to adhere to the surface, I was just going to wait until spring until it warmed up to start again.
Then I was getting antsy and didn't want to wait that long. So i purchased a heater to warm up the shop.
This thing is awesome and can warm up my shop from 30 degress to 65 degrees in 15 minutes. Now I can get to painting again and get this boat moving. Its a Mr. Heater, model MH125FAV, that can put out 125,000 BTUs with forced air. I was using another propane heater, that I used for ice fishing, early in the winter in the shop, but it was not helping much and taking hours to heat up the area. I should have bought this thing awhile ago. I got $50 off from it on Northern Tool's website. If you have a small shop/garage and don't have a heater, I would highly recommend this unit.
Here is the back deck and console painted back in October.
I also took a trip out to my storage lot where the boat is. I had covered it with a tarp and tied it down awhile ago, but failed to check on it during the winter. This is what I discovered when I got there.
Great :roll: :roll: :roll: I needed to get under the tarp to store the console and back deck in the boat (shown above) to make room in the shop. I spent about an hour chipping out the ice in 35 degree weather, using a crow bar and crappy gloves that I had on hand. Had to stop a couple of times to warm up my hands with the heater in the truck. Here is the massive pile I pulled out of the boat.
Here was the typical size I was dealing with.
So, I learned my lesson. Check on the boat more often. I used about 4 ratchet straps that went around the boat to help reinforce the tarp from sagging due to snow/ice and re-tarped the **** thing, and propped it up as best as I could.
Now that I got my heater, I will be posting my progress. I just want to get painting done, so I can move on to the interior of the boat. I hope to have it done by June. Crossing my fingers.
See I have a good excuse. Goose hunting last week.
Since I am in the process of painting, and the paint requires at least 40 degrees to be able to adhere to the surface, I was just going to wait until spring until it warmed up to start again.
Then I was getting antsy and didn't want to wait that long. So i purchased a heater to warm up the shop.
This thing is awesome and can warm up my shop from 30 degress to 65 degrees in 15 minutes. Now I can get to painting again and get this boat moving. Its a Mr. Heater, model MH125FAV, that can put out 125,000 BTUs with forced air. I was using another propane heater, that I used for ice fishing, early in the winter in the shop, but it was not helping much and taking hours to heat up the area. I should have bought this thing awhile ago. I got $50 off from it on Northern Tool's website. If you have a small shop/garage and don't have a heater, I would highly recommend this unit.
Here is the back deck and console painted back in October.
I also took a trip out to my storage lot where the boat is. I had covered it with a tarp and tied it down awhile ago, but failed to check on it during the winter. This is what I discovered when I got there.
Great :roll: :roll: :roll: I needed to get under the tarp to store the console and back deck in the boat (shown above) to make room in the shop. I spent about an hour chipping out the ice in 35 degree weather, using a crow bar and crappy gloves that I had on hand. Had to stop a couple of times to warm up my hands with the heater in the truck. Here is the massive pile I pulled out of the boat.
Here was the typical size I was dealing with.
So, I learned my lesson. Check on the boat more often. I used about 4 ratchet straps that went around the boat to help reinforce the tarp from sagging due to snow/ice and re-tarped the **** thing, and propped it up as best as I could.
Now that I got my heater, I will be posting my progress. I just want to get painting done, so I can move on to the interior of the boat. I hope to have it done by June. Crossing my fingers.
edwonbass
Well-known member
I just read through this thread and I got to say what a nice job! Great work. I would have half a**ed a lot of that! :LOL2:
I have a Spectrum 16 Dominator and the hulls look roughly like the same design. I'm going to start re-doing the carpet this month and hope I don't run into too many things. So far the boat doesn't have leaks but I worry about what my foam is going to be like.
I am keeping tabs on your progress and can't wait to see her in the water!
I have a Spectrum 16 Dominator and the hulls look roughly like the same design. I'm going to start re-doing the carpet this month and hope I don't run into too many things. So far the boat doesn't have leaks but I worry about what my foam is going to be like.
I am keeping tabs on your progress and can't wait to see her in the water!
Bigwrench
Well-known member
Really enjoying your build ! Great job and can't wait to see the foam pouring process.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Bigwrench said:
Hey Bigwrench,
I'll will be defiantly posting the foam process and showcasing the process that I will be using. I am hoping to get to it soon, but still have some painting left to do. Just keep checking in from time to time and it will be posted. Thanks for keepin' a eye on my project.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
edwonbass said:
Thanks for keeping tabs on the project. Look into Hydoturf for an alternative for your planned carpet project. A lot of guys use it on here and really like it.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
So I am going to back up little bit and show how I did my bunks and re-carpeted it. I did this back in October of 2015, but didn't post the process I used. So here it goes:
So purchased some 2X4's to replace the old bunks off the trailer. I could of used the old 2X4s off the trailer, but decided against it. I did't really want to spend the time removing the old carpet and having to remove the old glue and rusty staples.
I started with the guide-on's first. Shown here are two 2X4's and two 1x4's cut to lenght about 2 feet. I needed to add about 3" of thickness to the guide-on's, and that's what the original ones had. I applied one coat of Thompson's Water Seal to them and set them aside to dry. I chose Thompson's Water Sealer to give the bunks some protection, and it was a cheap method.
From there I concentrated on coating another set of 2X4's that measured 12ft long, using the water seal. Those bunks were the bad boys that would support the boat.
After the sealant was dried, I starting the carpeting process. I choose a UV-resistant, water resistant, outdoor carpet I found at a local carpet store for a reasonable price. No need to spend a lot on the carpet when it may get replaced in a few years after use.
First set of carpet cut and measured.
This is one of the guide-on's that I glued together. The glue I used was Titebond's III. It is rated for marine use and holds very well. Carpet has been cut and measured.
From there, I applied a layer of DAP Weldwood Contact Cement on the sides of the bunks and top where the carpet would sit.
With the cement on, the wrapping begins. I took my time with this. Slowly making creases and getting a nice tight fit, with little play coming from the carpet. It took awhile but was worth the effort spend. Having a helper (my wife) makes the next step a whole less stressful, while trying to wrap the carpet onto the bunks. Also using clamps to help facilitate the progress is a good idea. You can have NEVER enough clamps!!! :LOL2:
With clamps on, I started with a side and trimmed the excess carpet. The tool you see here is NOT a pizza cutter, but a sharp as hell quilting rotary cutter. That rotary is a sharp razor blade, designed to cut fabrics of different thicknesses. It was an after thought and should of used it to cut the carpet for the whole process. I plan on using it to cut my HydroTurf and cardboard templates (when I get there??? :| )
Next up was stapling. I used T50 Stainless Steel staples to prevent rusting and to help keep the carpet down.
And here are the new bunks. It took some time to do, but do it right, and take your time, you will have a nice finished product.
So purchased some 2X4's to replace the old bunks off the trailer. I could of used the old 2X4s off the trailer, but decided against it. I did't really want to spend the time removing the old carpet and having to remove the old glue and rusty staples.
I started with the guide-on's first. Shown here are two 2X4's and two 1x4's cut to lenght about 2 feet. I needed to add about 3" of thickness to the guide-on's, and that's what the original ones had. I applied one coat of Thompson's Water Seal to them and set them aside to dry. I chose Thompson's Water Sealer to give the bunks some protection, and it was a cheap method.
From there I concentrated on coating another set of 2X4's that measured 12ft long, using the water seal. Those bunks were the bad boys that would support the boat.
After the sealant was dried, I starting the carpeting process. I choose a UV-resistant, water resistant, outdoor carpet I found at a local carpet store for a reasonable price. No need to spend a lot on the carpet when it may get replaced in a few years after use.
First set of carpet cut and measured.
This is one of the guide-on's that I glued together. The glue I used was Titebond's III. It is rated for marine use and holds very well. Carpet has been cut and measured.
From there, I applied a layer of DAP Weldwood Contact Cement on the sides of the bunks and top where the carpet would sit.
With the cement on, the wrapping begins. I took my time with this. Slowly making creases and getting a nice tight fit, with little play coming from the carpet. It took awhile but was worth the effort spend. Having a helper (my wife) makes the next step a whole less stressful, while trying to wrap the carpet onto the bunks. Also using clamps to help facilitate the progress is a good idea. You can have NEVER enough clamps!!! :LOL2:
With clamps on, I started with a side and trimmed the excess carpet. The tool you see here is NOT a pizza cutter, but a sharp as hell quilting rotary cutter. That rotary is a sharp razor blade, designed to cut fabrics of different thicknesses. It was an after thought and should of used it to cut the carpet for the whole process. I plan on using it to cut my HydroTurf and cardboard templates (when I get there??? :| )
Next up was stapling. I used T50 Stainless Steel staples to prevent rusting and to help keep the carpet down.
And here are the new bunks. It took some time to do, but do it right, and take your time, you will have a nice finished product.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Here is the bunks on the trailer.
And here is the boat sitting on the trailer!!! Bought friggin time!!!
And here is the boat sitting on the trailer!!! Bought friggin time!!!
user 20022
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- Joined
- Aug 20, 2015
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Very nice work!
Sent from the dust in front of you!
Sent from the dust in front of you!
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Back to the past again......sometime in November of 2015.
So here is my console base and back deck. Both have been cleaned up and ready to go to prime and paint. I made a make shift painting both in my shop, using tarps to protect from over spray. I place the deck and console on these furniture dollies, so i could spin and easily move them around while I painted. Got em' at Harbor Freight on the CHEAP!!
]
Here they are primed. You have seen them finished on the last page, towards the bottom of the thread.
Sorry for the time travel, just got one more trip to do......below
So here is my console base and back deck. Both have been cleaned up and ready to go to prime and paint. I made a make shift painting both in my shop, using tarps to protect from over spray. I place the deck and console on these furniture dollies, so i could spin and easily move them around while I painted. Got em' at Harbor Freight on the CHEAP!!
]Here they are primed. You have seen them finished on the last page, towards the bottom of the thread.
Sorry for the time travel, just got one more trip to do......below
Shoedawg
Well-known member
OK last trip, and from here on it will be new progression. I promise you that.
I just wanted to share some painting tips that I learned during my paint job. These tips apply to using a paint sprayer.
To get a good start painting, FIRST pull the trigger on the sprayer BEFORE you move it to over your work piece. I was starting my first run, (shown here, below) and pulled the trigger about 4" from the edge of the boat, then moved the spray gun to the target area. Doing it this way will prevent any build-up on the edge and make it look professionally smooth when you first start.
Watch your height and angle!! Keep the distance of the tip of the gun the same throughout your paint run. It will help the paint stay consistent. DON'T move your wrist, like you would if you were painting with a paint brush (like Tom Sawyer painting a fence). Keep it still. Moving it about will cause high build up if you do. Keep a good pace. Don't go to FAST or to SLOW. Find a good rythem that is working. I also was side stepping to keep the momentum going.
Have a roller handy and on stand-by. Mistakes are going to be made, and build up and other issues is going happen from time to time. In the picture below, I have circled and pointed out some build up that I encountered. From my experience, 90% of the time, it was me causing the problem. I was either to close, to far, to slow or fast or something else. Having a roller on hand can easily fix the issue, and you can continue on.
Make sure to have the fan spray (or spray cone, the way the paint shoots out of the tip of the gun) goes over about 50% of the last run you did. This ensures that the paint covers the area and evening it out. Plus it looks a heck of a lot nicer when your done, with no uneven lines or gaps.
The following pictures below are the LAST coat of my paint job. I let it cure and dry for a about a week before I threw it back onto the trailer.
Finals thoughts and tips:
1. Know the type of paint your using and understand how to properly use it.
2. PRIMER!!! Know and understand how to use it. If your painting bare aluminum, your going to have to use a primer so the paint can adhere to it. Different materials just require it. Its science.
3. PRACTICE!!!! Practice first and understand how your equipment works. Use a piece of cardboard or scrap wood to practice with and get an understanding how the equipment functions. I used water first in my sprayer to see how the different spray fans worked and what they looked like. Then move onto paint if you like.
4. Clean that sprayer as soon as you are done with your coat. Don't go have a beer while the paint sits in the sprayer. You'll have one hell of a time trying to clean it out if you do. Use the right cleaners (water or chemical, like thinner) that the paint manufacturer says to use. Then you can have your beer.
5. Be patient. Don't rush through the job. Also check the weather forecast. Weather plays an important role when painting. Is it too cold to paint? Too Humid? Is it going to rain on me today during my paint job. Is it to windy to spray? Look on the paint can for guidelines. They are there for a reason. And let that paint DRY before you move on!!!
6. PREP WORK!! If you want a nice looking finish, you have to put in the prep work. When painting, prep work is about 99.9% of the job. :roll: :roll: :roll: For paint to adhere, the surface to needs to be clean and ready. I am pretty anal about my prep work and probably go over board, but it makes for a nice finish and one I know that is going to stay and last a long time.
7. Multiple light coats are better than two heavy ones. The paint will dry faster and look better, as opposed to heavy coats. It takes more time (and patience) to do multiple coats, but well worth it IMHO. It also provides layers of protection and adheres better. You can sand between coats (I did, it's posted a few pages back), using a light grit sandpaper and wiping up the paint dust before you apply your next coat. I did about 6 light coats with my boat and was very satisfied with the outcome.
8. Pass the knowledge. Share your experience, mistakes, tips with others. After all this is a forum that is about working on boats. :wink:
These are just tips that I have picked up and practiced along the way and are just my two cents. Thanks for reading.
I just wanted to share some painting tips that I learned during my paint job. These tips apply to using a paint sprayer.
To get a good start painting, FIRST pull the trigger on the sprayer BEFORE you move it to over your work piece. I was starting my first run, (shown here, below) and pulled the trigger about 4" from the edge of the boat, then moved the spray gun to the target area. Doing it this way will prevent any build-up on the edge and make it look professionally smooth when you first start.
Watch your height and angle!! Keep the distance of the tip of the gun the same throughout your paint run. It will help the paint stay consistent. DON'T move your wrist, like you would if you were painting with a paint brush (like Tom Sawyer painting a fence). Keep it still. Moving it about will cause high build up if you do. Keep a good pace. Don't go to FAST or to SLOW. Find a good rythem that is working. I also was side stepping to keep the momentum going.
Have a roller handy and on stand-by. Mistakes are going to be made, and build up and other issues is going happen from time to time. In the picture below, I have circled and pointed out some build up that I encountered. From my experience, 90% of the time, it was me causing the problem. I was either to close, to far, to slow or fast or something else. Having a roller on hand can easily fix the issue, and you can continue on.
Make sure to have the fan spray (or spray cone, the way the paint shoots out of the tip of the gun) goes over about 50% of the last run you did. This ensures that the paint covers the area and evening it out. Plus it looks a heck of a lot nicer when your done, with no uneven lines or gaps.
The following pictures below are the LAST coat of my paint job. I let it cure and dry for a about a week before I threw it back onto the trailer.
Finals thoughts and tips:
1. Know the type of paint your using and understand how to properly use it.
2. PRIMER!!! Know and understand how to use it. If your painting bare aluminum, your going to have to use a primer so the paint can adhere to it. Different materials just require it. Its science.
3. PRACTICE!!!! Practice first and understand how your equipment works. Use a piece of cardboard or scrap wood to practice with and get an understanding how the equipment functions. I used water first in my sprayer to see how the different spray fans worked and what they looked like. Then move onto paint if you like.
4. Clean that sprayer as soon as you are done with your coat. Don't go have a beer while the paint sits in the sprayer. You'll have one hell of a time trying to clean it out if you do. Use the right cleaners (water or chemical, like thinner) that the paint manufacturer says to use. Then you can have your beer.
5. Be patient. Don't rush through the job. Also check the weather forecast. Weather plays an important role when painting. Is it too cold to paint? Too Humid? Is it going to rain on me today during my paint job. Is it to windy to spray? Look on the paint can for guidelines. They are there for a reason. And let that paint DRY before you move on!!!
6. PREP WORK!! If you want a nice looking finish, you have to put in the prep work. When painting, prep work is about 99.9% of the job. :roll: :roll: :roll: For paint to adhere, the surface to needs to be clean and ready. I am pretty anal about my prep work and probably go over board, but it makes for a nice finish and one I know that is going to stay and last a long time.
7. Multiple light coats are better than two heavy ones. The paint will dry faster and look better, as opposed to heavy coats. It takes more time (and patience) to do multiple coats, but well worth it IMHO. It also provides layers of protection and adheres better. You can sand between coats (I did, it's posted a few pages back), using a light grit sandpaper and wiping up the paint dust before you apply your next coat. I did about 6 light coats with my boat and was very satisfied with the outcome.
8. Pass the knowledge. Share your experience, mistakes, tips with others. After all this is a forum that is about working on boats. :wink:
These are just tips that I have picked up and practiced along the way and are just my two cents. Thanks for reading.
user 20022
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2015
- Messages
- 466
- Reaction score
- 4
Thanks!
Sent from the dust in front of you!
Sent from the dust in front of you!
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Okay.....so I am back on track and progressing forward on the boat. Here it goes:
First off, I had to purchase a 60lb propane tank for the new heater. I was using a 20lb tank temporarily, but needed a bigger one to keep up with the BTUs the heater can produce. The heater requires, at a minimum, a 40lb tank. Plus the 20lb tank kept on freezing. The new tank ran me $125, kinda spendy, but well worth it. Funny thing though, is that a 100lb cylinder propane tank costs only $10 more ($135), but would have been too heavy and bulky for me to move around the shop and get refilled. I am happy with the choice I made and the new tank was a huge improvement. My shop went from 30 degrees to 80 degrees in about 25 minuets. I am loving this heater!
So here was the plan today. To clean and prime the BIG pieces I have left to paint. The two on the left go along the sides, inside the boat. The one in the middle is my bench seat base (for the driver and passenger) and is also a storage compartment. The piece to the right of that is my partition wall for the back deck, and the tray to the far right is for my battery and a toolbox.
To prep the pieces for primer, I gave them a quick wipe down with some Acetone, using a microfiber cloth and some chemical resistant rubber gloves. These gloves protect your hands better than nitrile gloves. Acetone and other chemicals will degrade nitrile gloves in a short time, limiting protection. Plus Acetone makes your hands cold (don't know why, but it does for me), so use those thick rubber gloves to protect your hands. Also, using a microfiber cloth with the Acetone picks up dust and other foreign debris better than paper towels or shops rags. Those also tend to leave small particles of lint on the work piece. Microfiber cloths are cheap and can be washed and reused, so buy a bag and throw them in the shop.
Here are the pieces primed and ready for paint. I used about 4 cans of Rustoleum's Self-Etching Primer. I applied a few light coats to each piece. They will be set aside until sometime next week, until I can shoot some paint on them.
Make SURE your WEAR proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)!!! Even with the garage door open, and plenty of ventilation, you still are breathing in crap. This was my 3M N95 mask I wore during my priming job. The mask is designed to catch about 95% of airborne particulates. You don't want that crap in your lungs. I should of worn one during my paint job with the boat, and WILL from now on.
Here is my last bit of stuff I still need to prime and paint. Got a few lids and some miscellaneous stuff in here, but after that, I am done painting, with the exception of my steering wheel console. Plan on getting these done on Tuesday, after I pick up some more primer.
After all the paint is dry for the pieces, I want to dry fit every thing together in the boat and start making a template with a design I have in mind with some cardboard I have been saving. Can't wait to get there. She is coming together slowly but surely.
First off, I had to purchase a 60lb propane tank for the new heater. I was using a 20lb tank temporarily, but needed a bigger one to keep up with the BTUs the heater can produce. The heater requires, at a minimum, a 40lb tank. Plus the 20lb tank kept on freezing. The new tank ran me $125, kinda spendy, but well worth it. Funny thing though, is that a 100lb cylinder propane tank costs only $10 more ($135), but would have been too heavy and bulky for me to move around the shop and get refilled. I am happy with the choice I made and the new tank was a huge improvement. My shop went from 30 degrees to 80 degrees in about 25 minuets. I am loving this heater!
So here was the plan today. To clean and prime the BIG pieces I have left to paint. The two on the left go along the sides, inside the boat. The one in the middle is my bench seat base (for the driver and passenger) and is also a storage compartment. The piece to the right of that is my partition wall for the back deck, and the tray to the far right is for my battery and a toolbox.
To prep the pieces for primer, I gave them a quick wipe down with some Acetone, using a microfiber cloth and some chemical resistant rubber gloves. These gloves protect your hands better than nitrile gloves. Acetone and other chemicals will degrade nitrile gloves in a short time, limiting protection. Plus Acetone makes your hands cold (don't know why, but it does for me), so use those thick rubber gloves to protect your hands. Also, using a microfiber cloth with the Acetone picks up dust and other foreign debris better than paper towels or shops rags. Those also tend to leave small particles of lint on the work piece. Microfiber cloths are cheap and can be washed and reused, so buy a bag and throw them in the shop.
Here are the pieces primed and ready for paint. I used about 4 cans of Rustoleum's Self-Etching Primer. I applied a few light coats to each piece. They will be set aside until sometime next week, until I can shoot some paint on them.
Make SURE your WEAR proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)!!! Even with the garage door open, and plenty of ventilation, you still are breathing in crap. This was my 3M N95 mask I wore during my priming job. The mask is designed to catch about 95% of airborne particulates. You don't want that crap in your lungs. I should of worn one during my paint job with the boat, and WILL from now on.
Here is my last bit of stuff I still need to prime and paint. Got a few lids and some miscellaneous stuff in here, but after that, I am done painting, with the exception of my steering wheel console. Plan on getting these done on Tuesday, after I pick up some more primer.
After all the paint is dry for the pieces, I want to dry fit every thing together in the boat and start making a template with a design I have in mind with some cardboard I have been saving. Can't wait to get there. She is coming together slowly but surely.
fool4fish1226
Well-known member
Moved thanks for sharing :beer:
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Moving along with priming and getting to prep the rest of the pieces for painting.
Below is my various size brackets and lids, before priming. The orange posted notes on the small pieces are to denote what pieces are what, and where they go on the boat. I DID etch (using a electric etcher) a made up part # into each piece, but wasn't sure if the primer and paint would fill in the etching, thus making it difficult to determine what each piece was. Hence the posted notes and drawing a diagram of the painting area.
Pieces primed and ready for paint.
I also decided to prime the steering console as well. I choose some Rustoleum Bonding Primer that is universal for all types of surfaces. I choose this, due to the Bondo putty and 2-part epoxies I used to repair the cracks and tears on the console. The blacks spots and hazy red areas indicate where I did my repairs.
The console after several light coats of the primer. Its a white primer, not a gray. Crappy lighting in the garage.
After priming, I noticed some small hair line cracks, that I didn't see before. The white primer really popped them out. I plan on letting the primer dry for a few days, and will fill in the little cracks with some Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. It can be used over primers and sanded. Just have a handful of cracks to take care, then I will prime over the repaired areas. I think I am being a little anal about this, but I might as well take care of it before I paint and to help strengthen the console. The cracks could continue to grow over time. You can see one of the cracks I'll have to deal with to the right of the putty tube.
The plan this weekend is to shoot paint on the pieces, shown above, and correct the cracks. I had to order another gallon of Parkers Duck Boat paint. Thought I had enough to do all the parts, but that wasn't the case. It'll be a week before the paint gets here. She is coming along though, and painting is almost done.
Below is my various size brackets and lids, before priming. The orange posted notes on the small pieces are to denote what pieces are what, and where they go on the boat. I DID etch (using a electric etcher) a made up part # into each piece, but wasn't sure if the primer and paint would fill in the etching, thus making it difficult to determine what each piece was. Hence the posted notes and drawing a diagram of the painting area.
Pieces primed and ready for paint.
I also decided to prime the steering console as well. I choose some Rustoleum Bonding Primer that is universal for all types of surfaces. I choose this, due to the Bondo putty and 2-part epoxies I used to repair the cracks and tears on the console. The blacks spots and hazy red areas indicate where I did my repairs.
The console after several light coats of the primer. Its a white primer, not a gray. Crappy lighting in the garage.
After priming, I noticed some small hair line cracks, that I didn't see before. The white primer really popped them out. I plan on letting the primer dry for a few days, and will fill in the little cracks with some Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. It can be used over primers and sanded. Just have a handful of cracks to take care, then I will prime over the repaired areas. I think I am being a little anal about this, but I might as well take care of it before I paint and to help strengthen the console. The cracks could continue to grow over time. You can see one of the cracks I'll have to deal with to the right of the putty tube.
The plan this weekend is to shoot paint on the pieces, shown above, and correct the cracks. I had to order another gallon of Parkers Duck Boat paint. Thought I had enough to do all the parts, but that wasn't the case. It'll be a week before the paint gets here. She is coming along though, and painting is almost done.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
So today was sanding and painting day. I finished up priming the console and shot the first coat of paint on my little parts and lids. I decided to fix those hairline cracks I had a few days ago, to let them cure. Here's how I did it:
The following pictures below show some of the hairline cracks I ran into while priming the console. I couldn't see them before, put the primer did and showed me what I missed.
To prevent the cracks from growing and getting worse, I used a method a buddy of mine told me about and which I shared earlier (a few pages back).
After I had drilled all my relief holes, I used the Bondo Putty to fill in the cracks and the holes I drilled.
After letting the putty cure for a few days, today I hand sanded the corrected areas. I started out with 100 grit sand paper (using a very light touch) and progressed up the grit rank, using 400 grit last. I blew the putty dust off and used a tact clothe to wipe up any remaining dust. Below are the results.
The fix turned out pretty good, and I was happy with the results and glad I choose to repair the cracks. I wasn't sure if they would have grown worse over time due to rough water, temperature changes or whatever the case. If I can try to reduce the damage or slow it down, I'll do what I can. Only time will tell.
The following pictures below show some of the hairline cracks I ran into while priming the console. I couldn't see them before, put the primer did and showed me what I missed.
To prevent the cracks from growing and getting worse, I used a method a buddy of mine told me about and which I shared earlier (a few pages back).
After I had drilled all my relief holes, I used the Bondo Putty to fill in the cracks and the holes I drilled.
After letting the putty cure for a few days, today I hand sanded the corrected areas. I started out with 100 grit sand paper (using a very light touch) and progressed up the grit rank, using 400 grit last. I blew the putty dust off and used a tact clothe to wipe up any remaining dust. Below are the results.
The fix turned out pretty good, and I was happy with the results and glad I choose to repair the cracks. I wasn't sure if they would have grown worse over time due to rough water, temperature changes or whatever the case. If I can try to reduce the damage or slow it down, I'll do what I can. Only time will tell.
Shoedawg
Well-known member
Moving on from there I applied the primer (adding a few light coats) and was curious to see if my repair job worked. I was pretty happy with the results. I couldn't see any more cracks.
Here is the first coat of Parker's on my lids and brackets. There going to sit overnight to dry, then I am going to shoot another coat tomorrow morning (hopefully) and let that coat dry for a good portion of the day. After that coat is dried, then I can flip them over and do the other side. This week will be dedicated to painting the rest of the parts and the console.
I am still on the fence about painting my motor cowling. I have the make shift paint booth set up already and the motor off the boat, so it would be easier to paint it now, rather than later. Its probably going to be painted :shock:
Here is the first coat of Parker's on my lids and brackets. There going to sit overnight to dry, then I am going to shoot another coat tomorrow morning (hopefully) and let that coat dry for a good portion of the day. After that coat is dried, then I can flip them over and do the other side. This week will be dedicated to painting the rest of the parts and the console.
I am still on the fence about painting my motor cowling. I have the make shift paint booth set up already and the motor off the boat, so it would be easier to paint it now, rather than later. Its probably going to be painted :shock:
Shesabugger
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Great job ! Attention to detail is awesome.
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