Project: Shoebox - 1764 Fisher FINISHED!!

[Shoedawg]

Hi,

This is my first post, and I found this site after doing some research about Jon Boat mods. So far I am liking what I am seeing! :-D I am a ROOKIE, brand new boat owner, so please go easy on me.

I have just purchased a Modified V Jon boat with a 50HP Mercury. Here are the specs:

Make/Model: A 2000 Fisher Dominator Modified-V
Length: 17ft
Motor: 2000 Mercury 50ECPTO (50 HP)
Trailer: 2000 Trailerstar
I do not know the weight limit (and could not find the sticker on the boat that tells you)

I purchased the boat, trailer & motor for $900. The guy selling it used it for duck hunting and fishing. It was last used in Jan 2014, after duck season was over. His wife hates the boat and she wanted him to upgrade. Seller said he can get it into 4" on water.

Here are some pictures of it:




As you can see, she needs some work. I would like to add a deck to the front, redo the back and replace the flooring. It does have a live-well. The boat is already painted with a wetlands camo (a plus), and the prop is a year old. The bilge pump was installed in 2010. Also the throttle (though working but has some issues) will need to be replaced.

Any suggestions or what you guys would do with this. I would like it to be a combo hunting/fishing boat.
I don't know all the terminology yet, but its widest point (measure from the top rail to rail) is about 66".

Shoe

 

[hawghunters]

Looks like you really got a deal. I would say the biggest issue is the floor, but it sounds like you already planned on addressing that. Take a look at what others have done to similar boats and see what sparks your interest. And of course show us how it goes

 

[Shoedawg]

hawghunters » 14 Feb 2014, 19:23[/url]"]Looks like you really got a deal. I would say the biggest issue is the floor, but it sounds like you already planned on addressing that. Take a look at what others have done to similar boats and see what sparks your interest. And of course show us how it goes

Thanks. Do you know how I can get the dimensions for the boat. Such as the floor width, and width of the rails (sorry still trying to get the terminology down). I read on one sticky thread, that one needs to be careful about how high they put their decking, but this depends on the width of the boat.

Shoe

 

[1957Crestliner12]

Inspect/repair/replace the engine control, discard the wood floor and your done.

If the engine runs and the boat doesn't leak like a sieve you did good.

Congrat's rookie...

Rod
Oriental, NC

 

[Shoedawg]

1957Crestliner12 » 14 Feb 2014, 19:48[/url]"]Inspect/repair/replace the engine control, discard the wood floor and your done.

Rod
Oriental, NC

Hey Rod,

Funny you bring up the throttle control. According to the manual I got with the boat, its a Commander 3000 Classic. The seller said it works but is "funky". He had it installed several years ago, and the installer hooked the controls backwards! So up is reverse, and back is forward. Plus the trim switch is not working (seller thinks it may be a short).

The seller also mentioned that to get it into neutral, you have to stick a screw driver into the bottom (where the circle is on the throttle) and play with it.

I am just going to replace it, if the price is right.


Here is the throttle

 

[1957Crestliner12]

Get a used Merc control off of eBay and you're set...

Rod
Oriental, NC

 

[kfa4303]

welcome to tinboats. Nice score on the boat. If the motor runs, $900 is a great deal. These old tinboats are basically a blank slate. Just a few rules to remember: NEVER use pressure treated lumber as it will lead to galvanic corrosion of the hull. Instead, use high quality, exterior grade plywood and seal it with either 2-part epoxy, Spar Urethane or Exterior paint. You'll then want to mount it to the hull using either aluminum rivets and/or stainless steel hardware dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk. Any bracing you may need for the decks can be made from 2"x2" lumber and/or aluminum angle. I would also suggest adding as much safety foam below decks as possible. The pink/blue closed-cell insulation boards work quite well. The best thing is that you can get everything you need, except epoxy, at any Lowes/HD. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.

 

[Shoedawg]

kfa4303 » 15 Feb 2014, 08:49[/url]"]welcome to tinboats. Nice score on the boat. If the motor runs, $900 is a great deal. These old tinboats are basically a blank slate. Just a few rules to remember: NEVER use pressure treated lumber as it will lead to galvanic corrosion of the hull. Instead, use high quality, exterior grade plywood and seal it with either 2-part epoxy, Spar Urethane or Exterior paint. You'll then want to mount it to the hull using either aluminum rivets and/or stainless steel hardware dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk. Any bracing you may need for the decks can be made from 2"x2" lumber and/or aluminum angle. I would also suggest adding as much safety foam below decks as possible. The pink/blue closed-cell insulation boards work quite well. The best thing is that you can get everything you need, except epoxy, at any Lowes/HD. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.

Kfa4303,
Thanks. The motor runs good. We started it up for a few seconds in the lot. To a look inside and it was clean and well maintained. Seller just used the boat this January. I have seen the boat go out a few times (I live on a small Air Force base) to the lake.

I have been running through the threads for info, and what you point out is what I have seen. I did see a few guys use aluminum ladders for their decking support. Been looking at Craigslist and found a few ladders for cheap. I have a lot to learn about rivets and aluminum angle and the like. Lots of great ideas on this forum. I am writing down some stuff I like and what I need to research.

I plan on getting this project started soon, and will open up a thread, detailing the adventure.

I do plan on getting a Trolling Motor, replacing the throttle controller, and figure out how to repair the console.

Shoe

 

[Captain Ahab]

You started the motor up with any water ??????


Time to replace the impeller at very least

That is about the worst thing you could do

It would really scare me if a seller agreed to do that or suggested it - makes me think he has likely done it a few time previously

 

[doc1976]

Captain Ahab » 15 Feb 2014, 13:40[/url]"]You started the motor up with any water ??????


Time to replace the impeller at very least

That is about the worst thing you could do

It would really scare me if a seller agreed to do that or suggested it - makes me think he has likely done it a few time previously

Yes, never start it out of water. At the very least use the ears that you attach to the garden hose. Besides that, good job on the buy. Half the fun with older boats is fixing them up the way you want them. My suggestion is don't rush it, do a lot of research before you start. Consider materials, construction methods and very important, layout. You have a good chunk of space to work with, so plan out storage and fishing decks well. Go to the local boat shop and look at the new boats to get some ideas for the layout. Don't cut corners on materials, you don't want to do it again in a couple years. If there is a bass pro shops in your area go check out the trackers, they are similar in shape to yours

 

[Shoedawg]

Captain Ahab » 15 Feb 2014, 14:40[/url]"]You started the motor up with any water ??????


Time to replace the impeller at very least

That is about the worst thing you could do

It would really scare me if a seller agreed to do that or suggested it - makes me think he has likely done it a few time previously

No, no, no! We used the suction cups that you attached a water hose to and run water. We towed the boat to the lots spigot and used it. I am new to this, but I knew better than to start it up without water to cool the engine. I should have clarified this. Sorry about that.

Good advice on visiting a boat store. There are ton of them in Boise.

 

[thill]

Starting up "for a few seconds" isn't going to hurt the impeller... But it's ALWAYS a good idea to replace the impeller on any boat where you don't know when the last one was replaced.

Generally, if you boat in clean water, replace them every 3 years. If in mud a lot, make sure to flush the engine thoroughly, and change the impeller every year. At least inspect it every year.

A little trick I learned from our master mechanic is to put your thumbnail in the pee stream about 6" away from the motor when at idle. If the water spatters and flies everywhere, the impeller is fine. If the water "sticks" to your finger, replace it! I've tested this theory several times, and it's correct every time.

Nice snag for $900! At least where I live, it would be. Best wishes for a quick, clean restoration.

-TH

 

[Captain Ahab]

thill » Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:53 am[/url]"]
A little trick I learned from our master mechanic is to put your thumbnail in the pee stream about 6" away from the motor when at idle. If the water spatters and flies everywhere, the impeller is fine. If the water "sticks" to your finger, replace it! I've tested this theory several times, and it's correct every time.

.

-TH

Neat trick - thanks gonna try it

 

[surfman]

Nice snag for $900, looks like it has floatation foam in the sides of the boat, I know they call that a modified V but it is really just a flat bottom jon boat with a pointed bow. A modified V has a V hull and is only flat at the stern. They usually have a more rounded bottom but that is a fine boat. Lot’s of good suggestions on here so far.

 

[Shoedawg]

Thanks for the inputs. I have done a lot of research and taking notes from the forum. There is a lot of great information to comb through here.

Lately I have been concentrating on aluminum framing. I am pretty handy when it comes to woodwork, but really do not want to use wood for my framing, due to the excessive weight. Using aluminum would lessen the weight, but I am still learning about how to use it.

There are many types of grades like 6061, 6063, etc and I am trying to figure out what it all means when it all comes together.

I am thinking of going with a combination of Square tubing, Angle, Sheet and maybe Round pipe aluminum. Not sure what I am going to use to help fasten it all together.

I know to use rivets, but what type (i.e. hallowed, solid) and the size? And I am not going to use a hand rivet gun, but getting a pneumatic one. I see Hardware Freight has a decently priced one.

Link here https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/riveters/1-4-quarter-inch-air-hydraulic-riveter-98898.html

I do know not to mix different metals together (like copper and aluminum). I am going into Boise tomorrow
morning to see what the scrap yards have on hand. So far I have seen new aluminum for about $1.50-$2.00 a foot.

Shoe

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

Sweet deal

 

[thill]

3/16 Arrow rivets from HDepot work well and are stong, especially if you can get the washers on from the back before crimping.

My hand riveter works well for this size. Have never tried the pneumatic gun, seems like a bit of overkill, but that might be a fun toy to play with!

-TH

 

[Shoedawg]

**TO MODS: Please move this tread to the Projects thread if this is not the right place for it, as I will be updating it frequently. I do not know how to move it. Thank you.**

Well it’s been a long time waiting and I finally got started on my tin boat mod. I have been busy with other projects and getting a garden ready for the wife, but now its focus time on the boat.

Day 1 (April 30, 2014)

First things first. Does she FLOAT???

A friend and I took the boat out to see how well it floated on the water, and how well the motor ran. She floats great and is very stable. I do not have the measurements of how far she is from gunwale to gunwale but I believe she is about 43" on the bottom and 63” from rail to rail wide.

We started the motor, and it kicked over and ran for a few seconds but then would die. After several attempts of this, we took off the cowling to see what the issue maybe was.

Spark-plugs were in great shape. No leaks or ripped/torn rubber hoses. Everything was working mechanically smooth. After several more tries, the battery died. Bummer. What to do now? We need a Jump Pack and I don’t have. Hey, maybe that old timer pulling that skiff over there has one. So using my friendly charm God has gifted me and not good looks, I go ask the old timer if he has one.

“I sure do!” he says. He even came over and took a look to see what the problem was. He knew what he was doing. He began right away checking everything, pulling plugs and checking for spark, grabbing this and that. He then ask for a cup, which I had an empty Mickey D’s plastic pop cup I just got done drinking. Cow crap is just falling into place!

He pulls out the primer tube and starts to pump gas into the cup. “Well I think we found your problem. Looks like you got a ton of water in your gas.” He showed me the cup and there indeed was a lot of water (sediment on the bottom) in the fuel. It was best just to siphon it all out, and clean out the tank. Looks like I am not going to be able to see how she moves on the water.
I thank the old timer, as we load up and head home. Now the endeavor begins. I've got to get that fuel tank clean.

As soon as I get home I start the siphon process. It takes two and a half 5 gallon tanks to get get rid of all the bad fuel. The fuel tank is HUGE for a boat like this.


The fuel cap is filthy and may need replaced. I plan on cleaning it. Lots of dirt going into the tank.


Here is the fuel tank indicator arm gauge (or whatever you call it). The rubber gasket is worn and dry rotted. I take it off and....


get this!!! It needs replaced. No wonder there was crude and water in the tank.


Here is the arm after removal. The fuel gauge works and reads just fine on the console. Should I clean it or leave as is?


Next, I remove the fuel lines to get the fuel tank out.


This clip is holding the fuel tank in place. There were two beat up plastic battery boxes in the way that had to go as well. I am using a Cats Claw to remove the rusty rivets.


Lots of dirt and grim built up on the tank. I didn't realize how BIG the tank actually was. I am guessing its a 20 Gallon tank.


A quick job of the pressure washer handles the grim and blasts it to oblivion. The left side of the tank is clean while the right is untouched.


After washing, I flush the tank out a few times. There was crude and dirt coming out during the flush. But she is all clean now of dirty fuel. She is ready to hold clean fuel. The tank will sit dry and out of the boat to give me room to clean the fuel tank compartment and give me access to clean the rest of the compartment. She's going to be sitting alone for awhile.



The fuel tank compartment. Lots of dirt, crude and grim built up over the years. Its gotta go.


Done for now. Next is to start tearing up the deck and cleaning. Stay tuned!

Shoe

 

[Kismet]

For your future use, you can buy an inexpensive funnel which separates any water from gasoline via a screen in the funnel. They come in different sizes for varying flow rates. Handy for those of use who don't dump fuel when the next season starts.

Looks like you purchased a great deal! Nice work.
=D>

 

[Shoedawg]

Kismet » 02 May 2014, 11:22[/url]"]For your future use, you can buy an inexpensive funnel which separates any water from gasoline via a screen in the funnel. They come in different sizes for varying flow rates. Handy for those of use who don't dump fuel when the next season starts.

Looks like you purchased a great deal! Nice work.
=D>

I'll look into those funnels you spoke about. I have a pretty large tank. The guy I bought the boat from said he only filled it up at the beginning of the season and didn't have to refuel it at all during the season. I am going to have to take a look at the fuel lines and fuel filter to make sure all that crappy fuel is not in the motor.