Pweisbrod's 79 18' mr pike DUCK conversion/rebuild

[Iverson_4x4]

I know what you mean, there just isn't enough hours in the day!

 

[Eddie Spaghetti]

Good to know Iverson. I'd like to replace with solid rivets as well, rather than SS bolts and goop. And thanks man, she's coming along! Hoping to start flooring in the next two weeks. I'll be lucky to have this thing done by FALL let alone fishing season! UGH!

You can do it! =D> You are venturing into unchartered territory (for me at least). I tried to leave all the original rivets alone. But, It sounds like you have a plan to get this done. I would think replacing rivets with rivets is the best way to go.

 

[Eddie Spaghetti]

I know what you mean, there just isn't enough hours in the day!

Iverson, I've discovered that there is actually more than enough time in the day. I just have to quit wasting it! :LOL2:

 

[Pweisbrod]

Good news Bad news gentlemen, I don't have to replace any rivets to do the transom (no solid ones anyway, just the ones that held the cap down.) But there are machine screws along the bottom edge of the transom wood. Two of which are accessible to me, the other four are covered by foam and splashwells etc. The head on the outside is phillips, but the inside is one of those little friction lock nuts. I can probably get them all out with a drill if i spin them fast enough (LOL) but I'm unsure how I'd re-fasten. I really don't want to take apart the "pods" full of foam in the back. UGH!

Any suggestions?

 

[Pweisbrod]

I'm getting so close! I almost have the transom out. all the bolts and rivets going through (not very many!) have been removed, but it is still stuck in there. I am struggling with finding a way to get it out. Any ideas? I Know that all bolts etc are out of it. I'm thinking it could be frozen in on the bottom?

 

[Eddie Spaghetti]

I'm not going to be much help here. Maybe do a search, and you'll find the info you need.

 

[Pweisbrod]

Core out! New core is gluing, going to resin that sucker up tomorrow. will also cut the new lids and hatch pieces for the rest of the deck.

discovered one small spot of corrosion

cutting new transom

would you guys use the "bondo" brand fiberglass resin on wood in the transom, or would you use marine spar varnish? I have both.

 

[Eddie Spaghetti]

I'm thinking the fiberglass resin (a couple coats) would last longer. Looking good.

 

[Pweisbrod]

 

[Iverson_4x4]

Looking Good!! I just got my transom out this weekend also.

 

[bigwave]

Yay the transom is out, the new one looks good too...... =D>

 

[Pweisbrod]

Yes, FINALLY! That took forever to get out!

I will putting final coat of varnish on tonight, then putting it back together as fast as I can! Then its time to powerwash, ref-oam, and re-floor! Next is new hatch lids, then the motor and wiring, then paint, then fish until duck season comes!

 

[Pweisbrod]

Schlupped a second coat of marine spar on yesterday, once it's dry it's going back into the boat!

Is it a good idea to glue this transom in? The last one was glued in (30 years ago) it had glue on the bottom edge and a bunch on each bottom corner.

 

[Tusker]

Those transoms can be might fun to work with. :lol: Looks like she's coming along nicely. =D>

 

[TheMaestro]

Im not sure about 'glue', but a removeable sealant along the edges would probably be a good idea to prevent seepage. I cant remember, but I believe the 3M 4200 is quick drying but also removes easier than the 5200.. Maybe someone can chime in on that..

 

[Pweisbrod]

Thanks Tusker appreciate the response.

Maestro: sure. I like the "Amazing Marine Goop" - I think I'll use that. Seems to be a great glue for fixing decoys, patching waders, just about everything... and it says it works on metal and wood, even cloth. I think It should be just fine!


Hopefully this weekend I can get my transom buttoned all the way back up, my last coat of spar varnish is drying now on the new transom. I will have to pick up a few odds and ends (small bolts and some screws, etc) but if everything goes well, I hope to have the motor hanging on the buttoned up transom of a cleaned out boat by Saturday night!

I have also made the decision to have the livewell through hull fitting welded shut. Dry storage baby.

 

[bigwave]

Yes 4200 will release....it is made to all future removal. You can also find many sealant removers, they will release most silicone adhesives.

 

[jvanhees]

Like the boat! Keep up the good work

 

[Ringo Steele]

On the topic of the spar varnish you are using...is it a spar urethane like the Minwax Helsman product? If not, do you know how it compares to it? I have not seen the Rustoleum Marine products in this area (yet). I am close to needing a new can for the continuation of my flooring project.

 

[Pweisbrod]

Thanks bigwave! Good to know.

Thank you Jhave.

Ringo: The rustoleum spar varnish marine is a urethane.It was 11 something a quart at Menards here.