too much motor? - - - - - - - lots of pictures

[Mr. Fahrenheit]

That's radical. If it doesnt work out, put some wings on there and you got a 14' airplane.

 

[chevyrulz]

look what i traded for:

it's a '92 evinrude 30 2 stroke, a much better fit, and so much safer with only 2x the rated HP for my lil 1436 :mrgreen:

also, in the pic you can see the (3) 4'x4'sheets of 1/4" aluminum diamond plate

 

[T Man]

look what i traded for:

it's a '92 evinrude 30 2 stroke, a much better fit, and so much safer with only 2x the rated HP for my lil 1436 :mrgreen:

also, in the pic you can see the (3) 4'x4'sheets of 1/4" aluminum diamond plate

I think you have a winner there.

 

[JMichael]

Don't care for the whales tail but I like that stainless prop. What's the chunk of aluminum bolted to the bottom side of the cowl for?

 

[Mr. Fahrenheit]

Whats the length on that there motor shaft? And how did that other motor work out?

 

[johnnybassboat]

Looks like a long shaft to me, might be jack plate time :LOL2:

 

[Mr. Fahrenheit]

For sure. I got a thread goin' on jack plates. Very good info in there. Good pics of many different styles of home made jack plates. >>>> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29000

 

[chevyrulz]

What's the chunk of aluminum bolted to the bottom side of the cowl for?

it attaches to a pulley system on the bottom of a poling platform used to raise/lower the motor, i'll be taking that off then reinstalling the mounting bolts w/ sealant.

and yes it's a long shaft, but raising the motor 5" isn't so hard

 

[juggernot]

I'm glad you got a lighter motor for that boat. I'm sure you would have been disapointed w the perfomance of that boat w that heavy motor hanging on the back, high bow, porpoising, water over the transome etc.. ...........I'm 2nd owner of a 03 G3 1860sc ( 875# hull ) w the max. hp ( 03 F90 ) that weighs almost 400#. It moves the boat well but is too heavy for this hull IMO. The 12 gal.tank and batteries are also currently in the back making this boat too stern heavy IMO. At rest the bow is quite high out of the water even w my 210lbs on the front deck. If I do a panic stop, and don't turn out of the wake it will crash over the back deck. W the factory 3 bld alum prop this boat was unstable at speed in anything but a wide, sweeping turn. I installed a 4 blade Solas and it improved the handling and control in turns more than alot and the boat handles like a sportscar now. Sitting in the water the heavy motor will intensify the rocking when wakes hit broadside ( like when fishing the bank and a wakeboarder trolls by ) and if not ready or not turned bow to the wake one could easily be tossed overboard standing on the front deck.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I feel so let down.

 

[Johny25]

Great thread =D> I am with Ick though, a little let down that I got to this part and no test run or video with the 35 Honda. Yes it would have been dangerous but it may have worked :-k. Want to know what I think would have happened....... you would have taken the return wave over the back soon as you let off the throttle......taking the boat to the bottom. But its just speculation since you robbed us all of a great story and video

Anyway you got a solid 30hp 2 stroke that will push that boat just as fast as that honda would have with half the risk. The weight savings on the motor will easily make up for that 5hp loss. That is a longshaft so its time to look into jack plates. Bet you can get 32-35mph if propped correctly on that boat. Hell I got same motor on a 14' V-hull that is decked out (heavy) and I can touch 30mph if I take all my gear out. Looking forward to following this thread

 

[Johny25]

Hey Chev what size prop is that on the rude... just curious?

 

[chevyrulz]

I feel so let down.

i'm kinda disappointed myself, wishing i'd have at least clamped that 35 beast on there & tried it. the main reason i traded, was because the foot on the honda was repaired, my buddy sold it to me. he hit a stump so hard it cracked the case, which was jb welded back together (sketchy!), also had a slow oil leak from the prop seal area (i think) but my buddy already had the prop seals replaced, meaning the shaft probably needed to be straightened or worse the case is cracked inside too & leaking (not good). even though the top of the motor was brand new & i could've replaced the case for $500 & straightened the prop shaft for $50 or so, i didn't really want to fool with it or spend any more $. i'd rather take my time on the hull ya know?

Hey Chev what size prop is that on the rude... just curious?

no clue, i'll try to remember to see if it has any markings on it when i get home (no promises lol)

Want to know what I think would have happened....... you would have taken the return wave over the back soon as you let off the throttle......taking the boat to the bottom. But its just speculation

i'll have to say i pictured the same thing when i 1st considered it. i also pictured it beached bow 1st on an island getting swamped by a wake, or any other scenario where water could come over the transom & sink it lol




i started the floor yesterday...damn that 1/4" diamond plate i picked up is tough stuff. jig saw won't touch it for long cuts, which sucks because the angle grinder is not as precise & makes a more jagged edge. anyways, i got the floor between the benches all cut out last night, its 1st coat of bedliner is drying now while i'm @ work. the diamond plate was shiny so i hit it with a wire brush drill attachment then removed all dust to ensure good adhesion. here's a pic of the supports for the floor:

those wood pieces are pressure treated, & they've been coated in the same bedliner as the diamond plate to isolate them from the aluminum & to increase longevity in the wet bilge environment. the wood pieces will be attached to the floor & sides w/ 5200, and to the bench faces with 5200 & coated self tapping screws designed to attach pressure treated wood to metal. i've already ground the paint from all mounting surfaces (after the above pics were taken) using a wirebrush drill attachment (the top of the ribs, as well as the sides, floor, & bench face where the wood attaches). for good adhesion, you don't want to trust old paint, & a scuffed or rough surface provides much better adhesion than a smooth one. i also hit the bottom of the diamond plate w/ the angle grinder to put some real good roughness where it will ride on the ribs to help the 5200 provide a lasting bond between the ribs & the diamond plate floor. this boat will be going in some moderately rough water on some days for duck hunting so i want to make sure it doesn't come loose prematurely. the diamond plate will be attached to the ribs using 5200 & aluminum pop rivets. more to come eventually

 

[Johny25]

Don't care for the whales tail but I like that stainless prop. What's the chunk of aluminum bolted to the bottom side of the cowl for?

I second this Micheal......and would remove whale tale. Motor will have no problems at all planing your boat and whale tale is nothing but extra problems with handling and loss of speed if motor is not adjusted to the perfect height. Not even worth messing with IMO.

And if your looking for top speed post your prop size, RPM's and MPH if you can once you get her in the water and we can get her dialed in. I bet you can turn a 15 pitch between 5500-5800 with that motor on that little flat bottom boat and that means 32-34mph :mrgreen:

 

[RiverBottomOutdoors]

Was that Honda for Mercury an even trade or did he throw something in with it?

 

[chevyrulz]

Was that Honda for Mercury an even trade or did he throw something in with it?

ain't no merc goin' anywhere near my boat! lol

 

[RiverBottomOutdoors]

Meant Evinrude.

 

[chevyrulz]

here's a few pictures of the redneck's table saw i rigged up to cut a straight line across the diamond plate w/ my angle grinder:

and the rib notch marked out for cutting:

once i cut length & width i layed it in the floor & marked the rib locations, turns out my '94 hull isn't perfectly square (go figure!), & so i had to open up the notches as well as scribe the fore/starboard corner & aft/port corner in order for the plate to fit in there. this meant i had to open up all 4 notches or else 2 would be larger than the others. so it's not a perfect against the rib fit like i hoped for, but if anyone asks I planned that for drainage :mrgreen: it was that or start all over & i damn sure wasn't about to start over! in end it looks fine to me, i'll put up a pic of the finished floor plate before i install it.

 

[fisherman58]

just cut the aluminum plate with a skill saw with fine carbide teeth cut slowly you will be happy strait cuts fast

 

[JMichael]

just cut the aluminum plate with a skill saw with fine carbide teeth cut slowly you will be happy strait cuts fast

You could probably get away with using a different brand of circular saw besides Skill :lol: but the more teeth the blade has the better it will cut the aluminum with less chance of kickback. It will cut much faster than using your angle grinder but you will need some hearing protection though.