YJs 1236 Semi V Mod

[Y_J]

OK. Finally got some pics of the trailer. I'm definitely going to need some input from ya'll on just how to make this work with my 12' semi v boat. I took off the original bunks and brackets then tried to pressure wash the paint off. Didn't work like I had hoped it would. The trailer is steel, galvanised I think. So I'm kind of afraid to take the cup brush to it to loose the paint. And at this point I'm out of $$ until November. I do have a can of paint thinner but haven't tried that on it yet.
Here are a few pics to give ya'll an idea of what I'm up against.
Start at the bottom of the photos :roll:

I considered having the bunks go 2 1/2' behind the trailer body but once the motor and other aft weight is there, I worry about the 2x4s holding up.. Other options is to just add the 3' to the tongue and maybe a couple rollers along the tongue.
I figure I need at least a couple feet forward of the winch post to the hitch so I'm not hitting up against the back of my truck.

Anyone with thoughts or ideas how to go about this, I am all eyes/ears and would appreciate any and all input. Also considering using SS bolts rather than welding. Thoughts on that also, please.

BTW, from the back cross bar to the tip of the hitch is 10'

 

[bobberboy]

That's a good looking trailer. Seems that sliding the one tube into the other should work if the dimensions of both are right. It's not like you're trying to build a trailer for a Bobcat or something. Are you going to strip the wheels? I have wheels I need to deal with and haven't decided what to do. Mine are really ugly and I'm trying to figure out if it'd be easier to just get new ones or try to fix the old ones.

 

[smackdaddy53]

Looking good! Get it on!

 

[Y_J]

bobberboy » September 29th, 2014, 6:46 am[/url]"]That's a good looking trailer. Seems that sliding the one tube into the other should work if the dimensions of both are right. It's not like you're trying to build a trailer for a Bobcat or something. Are you going to strip the wheels? I have wheels I need to deal with and haven't decided what to do. Mine are really ugly and I'm trying to figure out if it'd be easier to just get new ones or try to fix the old ones.

I don't really want to use the 2 1/2" section I have. Use it to slide into the 3" then I got to mess with shims inside of that one. I think I'm going to take the hitch off so I can measure the ID of the 3" and get a new tube to match that, Drill holes through both and put lag bolts through them. Like you said, it's not like I'm doing it for a bobcat. I can move the boat around by myself and I'm half crippled so it don't weigh very much.

I believe I'm going to just get new wheels and tires. HF seems to have some pretty good deals on the 12". LOL plus they'll both match then. Then I'll get a spare wheel mount and use the best of the two old one as a spare until I can afford to get a third to match the new ones.

 

[Y_J]

smackdaddy53 » September 29th, 2014, 12:09 pm[/url]"]Looking good! Get it on!

Thanks Mac.. I did a mock lay up today with the boat on the trailer with the replacement bunks just laying on the trailer frame. Trying to figure out just where to mount them at. I also tried to figure out if the bunks could support the weight with them extending out about 3' behind the trailer frame. I'm not real wild about that idea though. Afraid the 2x4s won't hold up to good under the weight of a motor hanging back there, not to mention the OTR bounce that will be going on.
I've also pretty much decided to put the batteries under the middle bench to help balance the weight out on the water plus it would (currently) put that weight load just ahead of the axle on the trailer.
Onward and upward...

 

[Y_J]

Ok. a little update. It seems that I just bought a new (to me) OB. It's a 4.5 HP Ted Williams that I found on eBay. About a week and a half ago, I put a bid in on this motor. How clean it was kind of caught my eye. Anyway the seller said it was used in a boat showroom as a display. About a week ago I started thinking about it and hoping that someone would outbid me because I couldn't figure out how to bow out of the auction. Ok, the price is low enough that someone is bound to outbid me then. I thought. What has me worried about it is being a showroom display, my thinking is that it probably don't have any innards in it. Anyway, here is the info that I have from the auction:
------------------
Vintage 60s Sears Ted Williams

4.5 HP Outboard Motor

Showroom Display Model

MOTOR LOOKS NEW OR RESTORED

BUT I AM NOT SURE

SO I AM SELLING AS A DISPLAY MODEL ONLY
------------------------------------------

Brand:
Sears
Stroke:
2-Stroke
Engine(HP):
4.5
---------------------
Item condition:Used
“USED FOR YEARS AS A SHOWROOM DISPLAY IN A BOAT SALES STORE ... WAS TOLD IT WAS A NEW SHORT BLOCK AND PARTS USED FROM A USED MOTOR LOOKS NEW BUT I AM NOT SURE SO I AM SELLING AS A DISPLAY MODEL ONLY...HAS SOME MINOR WEAR AND WILL NEED A GOOD CLEANING”
Ended: Oct 01, 2014 10:12:54 MYT
Winning bid:US $202.50
Approximately RM 664.30
[ 3 bids ]
Add to list
Postage: US $82.90 (approx. RM 271.95) Economy Shipping | See details

Item location:
Anchorage, Alaska, United States

Post to:
United States
Delivery:
Estimated within 2-11 business days
Payments:
PayPal | See payment information
Returns:
14 day money back, buyer pays return postage | See details
Coverage: Pay with PayPal and stay 100% Protected.
-------------------
LOL, so now I'm thinking, if I'm out the couple hundred then at least it's a pretty motor. :?

These are the photos that I took off the auction page. (ok gonna have to put the other two photos in another message.)

 

[Y_J]

Ok here's the other two photos

So, given the known info what is your take on this motor? I tried to find out just what year it is and any other info I could find but so far haven't been able to find any useful information. If anyone has any experience with these motors please fill me in. Once it get's here I'll be able to get a bit more on it, like who made the engine (I think it's Eska but not positive on that). Could possibly be Tecumseh also. Could this motor possibly be about the same as the 5HP or 7.5HP?
Lots of questions to get answered.
Any input and thoughts ya'll have, please chime in here.

 

[SumDumGuy]

From what I have seen it appears to be a 1974 but I am not positive.

also...

"If the model number of a Sears or Ted Williams outboard begins with 217, it was built by Eska Outboards -- which purchased Tecumseh's designs before Tecumseh built any motors -- between 1968 and 1986."

kind of strange a "display model" would not be the correct color scheme. The power head, that can be seen, does look very clean though.

1/4 pint oil per gallon fuel mix (chainsaw type air cooled motor oil). 30-32:1

 

[Y_J]

Right on, SDG. That's some of the info that I had been trying to find. I though I had seen a listing somewhere on the net that listed model #s and what year they were but I'll be darned if I can find it now.
I went by West Georgia Marine today to check on progress on the Gamefisher motor and he told me they hadn't got to it yet, so I just picked it up and put it in the back of my truck. Told him that after being submerged, I doubt very much it would ever run again so no need to worry about it anymore.
He then proceeded to tell me about a guy that kept coming in to trade him and Evinrude 9.9 HP. I told him that if he would allow me to make payments on it, I'd be interested in taking it off his hands provided it ran. He said he thought we could work something out, so who knows. I may have just landed what I wanted all along anyway. Evinrude cause parts are easy to come by and 9.9 close to the max my boat will take.
Thanks again for the info bro..

 

[SumDumGuy]

Even if the Evinrude is not running (which may be preferable so as to lower the price) they are super simple to work on.
Check the compression on it and do a bit of an overview inspection for something major - seized, bent shafts, etc.
A 9.9 ought to make that boat of yours scream across the water.

As far as the submerged motor. You might try fogging the cylinders and trying to make them move. If they move, check your other fluids, sling oil all over to get bearings, etc and try and start it up. It is possible it will still run. If it does run perhaps it could be used in the Evinrude acquisition.

Good Luck!

 

[Y_J]

Even if the Evinrude is not running (which may be preferable so as to lower the price) they are super simple to work on.
Check the compression on it and do a bit of an overview inspection for something major - seized, bent shafts, etc.
A 9.9 ought to make that boat of yours scream across the water.

As far as the submerged motor. You might try fogging the cylinders and trying to make them move. If they move, check your other fluids, sling oil all over to get bearings, etc and try and start it up. It is possible it will still run. If it does run perhaps it could be used in the Evinrude acquisition.

Good Luck!

Yep.. I'm going to try to go thru it and was thinking that if it does start to work, I may just put it on my Gheenoe.
Think I better make me a few motor stands .

 

[WPS]

Hi Y_J

Have you done anything else to your boat ?

Great. You don't happen to know what make of boat it is would ya? I've been trying to figure this one out ever since I got it.

I looked through your thread, and I believe we have the same boat... (only difference is, mine only has 2 bench seats in it, but one could have been removed ''years'' ago...Its the front bench)

I bought mine 8 years ago and it had a title with it... I bought the boat and turned it upside down and never touched it again, until 2 weeks ago!... On the back corner of mine there used to be a sticker, but I can still read it... (ELGIN)

On my title it says 12' (but its actually 11' 6") and its a 1967... Year I was born! lol

I'll take some pictures when I get time!... Mine also has several splits in the gunnels... I own a welding shop and I'm going to weld mine... I notice the sides on mine move a little... Does yours ?... If so, you could put some braces that go from the top of the sides, and mount the brace to the bench seats!... Could also make new gunnels out of aluminum pipe or square tubing... The square tubing is much easier to make a cut down the length of it!

I Sold my Bass Tracker in 2012 and bought a 2013 Sun Tracker Pontoon because my wife & teenage kids wanted one, and I thought I would fix the small boat up for a couple small lakes in our County.. You can only use trolling motors on both lakes and this boat would be just fine!

But, our boats looks to be the same!... I'll get pictures as soon as I can if you want to see them... (I'm planning to start a thread when I work on it)

Take care!

Bill

 

[Y_J]

Right on, Bill..
Yep I been working on it. Was getting ready to post a little update when I saw your post. I tried brazing the splits but a couple of them don't want to cooperate. I got real close to buying a welder but I just couldn't justify the cost vs the usage. Primarily because I found that a couple patches that were put on the sides before me, were steel and not aluminum and I couldn't get it hot enough to braze them with aluminum low temp rod. On one of the splits I've decided to make a heavy gauge aluminum strip and bolt it on the inside to hold the two sides of the split even, then add brazing rod to that. That part of the inside will be pretty much hidden buy the storage deck up at the bow anyway.
Aside from that, I finished making the Transom wood parts, both inside and outside, yesterday and got a couple coats of Spar Urethane on them today. Gonna add a third heavier coat tomorrow.
Photos coming tomorrow..

 

[Y_J]

Ok here is a photo update.
The entire outside is sanded down to bare metal.. Got some of the splits and needless holes brazed and ground down. Got the bench seats all sanded down to bare metal and some of the splits on them brazed. Those are just about ready to put back in the boat just as soon as I finish sanding the paint out of the inside and cleaned up. The bench seats will only be in temporarily until I get things framed in for the floor. Then I'll re-rivet those back in for part of the the deck support. Won't be very high on those though. Just high enough to make sitting comfortable with the raised floor.
As usual any thoughts, ideas and critiques are more than welcome.

 

[smackdaddy53]

That is a small motor.

 

[Y_J]

It sure is.. got a bigger one you want to swap for it?

 

[smackdaddy53]

It sure is.. got a bigger one you want to swap for it?

Sorry, wasn't being sarcastic! You don't need a big motor to have a good time on the water. My little 1242 flat bottom has a 15 and gets the job done just fine. That is a cool little motor and clean too!
I think it's a 1242...now I have to measure it.

 

[Y_J]

It sure is.. got a bigger one you want to swap for it?

Sorry, wasn't being sarcastic! You don't need a big motor to have a good time on the water. My little 1242 flat bottom has a 15 and gets the job done just fine. That is a cool little motor and clean too!
I think it's a 1242...now I have to measure it.

No problem Mac. I didn't really take it that way. It is a small boat. Especially for a couple of guys my size. 260 lb and my buddy across the road says 210 lb. But the way I see it, I've learned a lot already doing this make over. I've had one challenge after another with this beat up old tin can. LOL especially with some of the beat up parts.
I really think a tree or something fell on it somewhere along the line. The past couple of days I've been working on one of the tears in the port side gunnel right up at the bow. The tear goes all the way through the gunnel and about 2" down the side. The forward side of the tear seems really fine with the right curvature and gunnel shape. It's the aft side of the tear that don't want to stay put where it belongs. It's bent outwards so much it keeps wanting to pop back out to where it's been for God only knows how long. I keep trying to braze it while it's held together with C Clamps but the propane torch seems to have a hard time getting the temperature up high enough to melt the aluminum brazing rod and when I finally get it, let it cool down and take the clamps off, it just breaks loose of the brazing and springs back to where it was. I think next payday I'll pick up a couple bottles of MAP gas and give it a go with that. (BTW, that propane torch is great for starting fires in the fire pit on these chilly morning under the gazebo LOL).
Anyway, today I decided to use a piece of 1/16" aluminum from an old window base for an AC I had and put a cutting wheel on my angle grinder and whacked out an 8" x 1 1/2" piece, ground it all nice and even, C clamped it to the gunnel with the tear in the center. That helped pull the two sides of the tear even with each other. Then I drilled 4 bolt holes through the bar and the hull. While digging through a jar I have with bolts and stuff in it, I found 4 SS screw bolts just slightly larger than the holes (with the threads). Cranked them puppy's through from the outside of the hull so that the threads could hold through the bar. Kind of a redneck way of doing it but it worked out great. That should hold it all together until I can get it properly welded.
Guess I got a little long winded there Tomorrow will be grinding paint from the inside of the hull. whoo hooo.

 

[WPS]

Y_J, Your boat is lookin' good!.... I know you done a lot of grinding to get the paint off!.. I hate that job, just got through doing the same thing today... Your boat will look nice when you get it painted!

I told you my 12' Elgin tin was a 1967... After removing some paint today, I found a date stamp.. 3-1-1978.. My title says 1967! :shock: lol

Ok picked up the jetski trailer today and need to add 3 (three) feet to the overall length to it. The tubing that the trailer is made out of it 3" and the extra piece of tubing that the PO gave me is 2 1/2" so I think I'm going to have to use some shims on it somehow. (or find a 2 5/8" square tube to slide in it and weld on)

How long is the tubing that the PO gave you ?

You need to have enough tubing so it can go inside the 3" tubing at least 1FT. maybe 16".

On the tubing that the PO gave you... Weld some ''flat-bar'' to the smaller size tubing... Weld it to the top, both sides & bottom... Then slide it inside the 3", and weld all the way around it... That will take care of it!

If you lived close to me, I would weld it up for ya for free, just to help you out!... BTW, Thank YOU for your service! :USA1:

 

[Y_J]

The extra piece of 2 1/2" tubing he gave me was 3' 6" long but now that you mention it, 6" slid inside the 3" tubing just isn't enough. I could leave the the bunks and boat hanging 1' off the back but I'm not liking that idea to much ether. A lot of the roads around here are choke full of pot holes and you're constantly trying to play dodge ball with them. Makes it kind of rough on a transom and motor hanging off the back. But if I did hang off the back I could slide the tongue piece in another 12". Or maybe I could split the difference and only go 6" past the back and another 6" in on the tongue for a total of 12" slid into the 3". Hmmmm..... Now that just might work.
The only thing I don't like about the extra piece is that the walls are twice as thick as the 3" tubing and that thing has to weigh about 40 lb (rough guess).

I appreciate the welding offer but I'm afraid Kentucky is just a little to far from Georgia
I did get some better wheels and beefier tires on the trailer yesterday. Still 12" but heavier duty and no dry rot and much better tread. Took them off of my utility trailer and put them on the boat trailer. LOL that's going to get a lot more use than the utility trailer does.

I also got the trailer flipped over to sand the paint off that and got that about half way done yesterday until my angle grinder kicked the bucket. Had to drive the 30 miles to Harbor Freight to replace it. I'm hoping to Have that finished and primed by the end of today. Will have to see what happens with the new grinder.
Will get some new pics later today and put them on here tonight..