Dyeguy's 1648 Mod- Pics Update... DONE

[dyeguy1212]

I'm thinking I'll throw in some more ribs on the cockpit to have 12 in spacing, and definitely use 1/2" there. I haven't done the rear deck bracing yet, so if I have enough 2x2's, I'll do 12" spacing and use 1/2" there too. While I'd like to keep the front light, the stern is probably more important, considering that big 'ol 40 horse hanging on it...

I really don't think I can pull it off up front though.. the hatches are just too big to not risk falling though one day..

 

[Bugpac]

The hatches are wood to? 12" spacing in 4' is only one more board... you wont even notice the weight difference.. :mrgreen: I think you are close enough as is, Id glue it and screw it for rigidity..

 

[dyeguy1212]

Yeah, everything is wood.


All the decks are going to be bolted down in 6 places with carriage bolts... they aren't going anywhere

 

[Troutman3000]

Could you eleborate on your plan to attach the decks? I am looking for some ideas.

 

[dyeguy1212]

Carriage bolts. Thats about it :lol:

 

[Ta5teless]

I'm sitting here with him as we speak and he looked at your photos and Says you did a nice job. Profile runs about $5.00 per foot and you would use a lot less than the wood....

 

[Troutman3000]

Carriage bolts. Thats about it :lol:

Thanks. :roll:

 

[dyeguy1212]

I'm sitting here with him as we speak and he looked at your photos and Says you did a nice job. Profile runs about $5.00 per foot and you would use a lot less than the wood....

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Thats well out of my price range right now, but if I keep the boat long enough to need to redo the decking, I'll keep your post in mind.

 

[dyeguy1212]

Got a lot done today, even though it doesn't necessarily feel/look like it. I adeed/moved some supports around to allow 1/2" ply on the front deck and cockpit. I haven't started on the rear deck yet, because I'm still deciding on the design.. so it might take a week or two.


I'm going to tearing everything apart and water sealing tomorrow. Hopefully it'll dry okay with the propane heater in the garage.

 

[Doug]

The mods are looking great. Keep the pic's coming.

 

[dyeguy1212]

Here are a couple pics of the progress I made today. The recessed foot tray was a bit of a pain, so I'm glad to have it out of the way. In comparison to the other pics, you'll notice I added more support in the cockpit to allow for 1/2" plywood, and added the 2x2's connecting the cockpit floor to the front deck (which turned out to be a waste, because I need to put the floor in before I can secure said connections). But progress is progress.

 

[Dave11]

Do you know the what the thickness is of the aluminum brackets you are using to piece together your 2x2 frame?

I would be careful about how much weight I put on those if they are an 1/8" thick or less especially on longer runs.

I have a mechanical engineering background, so if are questioning how much support you need or how much deflection your deck would experience I might be able to give you some sort of estimates before you even buy or cut anything.

Best bet, would be to design the supports to withstand around 500 lbs (two guys and then some) as a worst case scenario.

Good Luck!

 

[russ010]

Do you know the what the thickness is of the aluminum brackets you are using to piece together your 2x2 frame?

I would be careful about how much weight I put on those if they are an 1/8" thick or less especially on longer runs.

I have a mechanical engineering background, so if are questioning how much support you need or how much deflection your deck would experience I might be able to give you some sort of estimates before you even buy or cut anything.

Best bet, would be to design the supports to withstand around 500 lbs (two guys and then some) as a worst case scenario.

Good Luck!

Those brackets are designed to just piece the 2x2s together without drilling through the top or sides (which would cause more load stress). What he is using, and the spacing between each brace/support base will hold more than 2 guys, so weight is not the issue.

He did this build a lot better than some of us do... the only issue he's going to have is putting fish in his Fishmate Pro Livewell that he loves so much... lol

 

[Johnny5]

There simpson strong ties! They hold the world together

 

[dyeguy1212]

Do you know the what the thickness is of the aluminum brackets you are using to piece together your 2x2 frame?

I would be careful about how much weight I put on those if they are an 1/8" thick or less especially on longer runs.

I have a mechanical engineering background, so if are questioning how much support you need or how much deflection your deck would experience I might be able to give you some sort of estimates before you even buy or cut anything.

Best bet, would be to design the supports to withstand around 500 lbs (two guys and then some) as a worst case scenario.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the heads up, but I'm really not worried about it. I stand on the bracing all the time, rock back and forth, and basically put it through hell to make sure this mod will hold up. Its not budging even a little, so with plywood on top I should have no problems at all. I do understand where you're coming from though, because the brackets don't look very robust, but they get the job done for sure.

 

[Dave11]

I thought I would mention it because I have seen some ties that were meant for holding the wood in place but not for supporting load.

Looking at the mods on this site, it seems like most people either go all wood or all aluminum on the deck frame. I think a good option for deck framing would be a combination of aluminum and wood. Specifically, the aluminum would be used on longer spans and the added stiffness would require less under supports such as those connected to the ribs of the boat. Only spans of 48" or would probably require one single under support if you were using 2x2-1/8" square tube. For instance, the span between my bow seat and front bench seat is only 42" in my Lowe 1448.

Then 2x4's could be used to create the cross supports to connect the aluminum supports. If the spans of the cross supports are 24" or less, you would be fine. On most jons, you could build a deck without having to attach a single support to the floor.

To me the benefits would be easier assembly and the extra expense of the aluminum would be offset partially by the less wood and connectors required. Also, you would be saving on weight. In the end, I don't think the cost would be that different.

You have a pretty big boat, so I am not saying this is the best option for you, but it might work for someone with a 1236,1436,1448, 1542, etc.

Just thinking out loud

 

[dyeguy1212]

I thought I would mention it because I have seen some ties that were meant for holding the wood in place but not for supporting load.

Looking at the mods on this site, it seems like most people either go all wood or all aluminum on the deck frame. I think a good option for deck framing would be a combination of aluminum and wood. Specifically, the aluminum would be used on longer spans and the added stiffness would require less under supports such as those connected to the ribs of the boat. Only spans of 48" or would probably require one single under support if you were using 2x2-1/8" square tube. For instance, the span between my bow seat and front bench seat is only 42" in my Lowe 1448.

Then 2x4's could be used to create the cross supports to connect the aluminum supports. If the spans of the cross supports are 24" or less, you would be fine. On most jons, you could build a deck without having to attach a single support to the floor.

To me the benefits would be easier assembly and the extra expense of the aluminum would be offset partially by the less wood and connectors required. Also, you would be saving on weight. In the end, I don't think the cost would be that different.

You have a pretty big boat, so I am not saying this is the best option for you, but it might work for someone with a 1236,1436,1448, 1542, etc.

Just thinking out loud

Sounds like you really ought to do a mod and put it on this site! If you ask me, there are way too may cookie-cutter boats, with everybody doing the exact same thing, listening to the exact same people's opinions. I like the idea of mixing support types, for the reasons you mentioned, plus it would cut down on the cost of going all-aluminum.

 

[dyeguy1212]

disregard... double post

 

[dearl]

Not to mention the price of all aluminum is outrageous, dygye looks like your decks would stand up against a hurricane if need be, looks good.

 

[Dave11]

Not to mention the price of all aluminum is outrageous, dygye looks like your decks would stand up against a hurricane if need be, looks good.

I was not saying that his layout would not hold, I was only suggedting to pay mind to the loads on the brackets. I did not realize that he was using galvanized steel brackets, I thought they were aluminum at first.

If you do some searching, you can find some aluminum for a reasonable price (is it the price of wood...no). My point was if you are smart about your sizing and support structure, you can minimize your material and hence cost and maybe use aluminum even if you are on a budget. For instance, a lot of people who have built aluminum framed decks have used either thin angle or 1.5" square tube. This kind of structure would still require a significant amount of under and cross supports. However, if you spent a little more money on a bigger cross section, I think you could build a deck with a lot less material. That is why I suggested an optimum method for those of us on a budget might be a hybrid wood/aluminum deck.